All the things...

WIP! FAIL! Success!!

I decided to enter the Pattern Review skirt contest because 1) I need more summer skirts and 2) it's sponsored by Fabric Mart (what?!). I decided on Burda 6769 in a dark denim.

I haven't had a ton of sewing time the past 2 weeks but got started on this last Sunday. I'd gotten the front pockets done and for some odd reason thought I would finish this on "cat lady Friday" (that's how I now refer to Friday nights as both kids normally work til close!). What on earth was I thinking?! Pfft. All that top-stitching AND my old machine is being a bugger and so I have to switch between regular and top-stitching thread. Boooooo!

Last night I got the side seams sewn. I really wanted to top-stitch them because of how they wrap around to the front but not sure I can sew inside the tube neatly. And THEN I ran out of top-stitching thread. Sheesh. So I have to grab more today and hopefully can get it finished.

I took a TON of photos while this was in progress so be prepared for a hefty blog write up.

Progress shot posted on IG

I need to get started on M7167 if I'm going to have that ready to wear on Thursday. I also need to get more party stuff and get a bunch of boxes out of the dining room (that's the only room that isn't fully unpacked).


One of my May items was this M7386 skirt. I just loved the look of it and thought it would be cute. Well, this is not the first time I've tried a maxi skirt on me and hated the outcome. Maxi dress? Sure. Skirt? Meh. This fabric (from Fashion Fabrics Club) was awful too. Which I'm sure doesn't help.

I cut out a size L and sewed it up.

And then went back and removed about 3" total from the side seams. I didn't finish the waist before taking these pics because I won't wear it. I just don't like it at all.  I may finish it for my mom though. But I'd have to lose like 3-4" from the length and I don't know how that'll affect the shape of it.  We'll see if I get around to it...

Do I have curves? Yes. But I am still quite rectangular in shape. And this OVER emphasizes that. I don't fancy looking like a column. Even when it's pretty flowers ;-)

Win some. Lose some.

Lastly, I sewed up S8138 in an olive crepe georgette and wore it to see Queen Bey! last Monday. Read all about that project over on the Fabric Mart Blog.

Simplicity 1756: Skill Builder

My top is this striped peplum in poly chiffon from NY & Company 

(I've always loved their tops)

The year I started sewing I coveted this pattern! 

There weren't many versions made up but still - I wanted it! 

I was going to make it before as part of a wardrobe contest, cut the pattern out, but didn't have enough fabric. Then, I intended to use it for the current PR Wardrobe Contest (of which I've dropped out of), so when Michelle from Style Maker Fabrics contacted me and asked me to participate in her Spring Canvas Blog Tour, I jumped at the opportunity to choose a white fabric to use for my vest.

I am #7 on the tour so be sure to go back and check out the projects of the lovely 6 ladies that went before me!

I've wanted a crisp white topper for the longest and went for THIS cotton/linen blend.
1) For the crispness
2) Because it's lightweight (and summery!)
3) Because while lightweight, it's stable enough to handle the zippered welts I wanted to insert

As I mentioned, the pattern was already cut out - in a size 16. I'd already made flat pattern adjustments: Narrow shoulder, taking a tuck between shoulder and bust, and swayback.

Zip-It (NAYY) is my main go-to for interesting and/or single zippers (Otherwise it's Wawak all the way).

I was buying zippers for another project and picked up 4 of thsese. I HAD to have them! :)  I ordered these almost a year ago and was so excited that a project finally came up giving me cause to use them.

The vest comes with patch pockets -- which I am SO glad I didn't use! More on that later. 

I used Fashion Sewing Blog TVs tutorial for the pockets - she is so good. Interfacing. Careful marking. Careful stitching. It's certainly nothing you want to rush through!

They aren't perfect - next time I'll topstitch 1/4" from the zipper - but I was So proud of myself!!

I'd posted this on IG mid-construction.

always mind your marks!

My collar went in effortlessly, because I had everything properly marked and took my time.

I'm very happy with it!

All seam allowances are serged and pressed open. The fabric is fairly opaque, but the center back seam shows up through the fabric. I have no photos of the back because it started raining and my photographer ran in the house. She'd just did her hair. :) But this photo starts my issues with the finished project.

I think it looks like a lab coat.

And after I initially thought it, I couldn't shake it. Could. Not. Shake! I hoped the zippered pockets would help (see why I'm glad I didn't go with patch pockets?!) but I just don't love it :(

The pattern wasn't without problems. Not until after I was working overtime to press the collar did I question why the pattern had me interface both the upper and under collar. Even though the under(?) collar was to be cut on the bias. I questioned it and cut it on the fold, but my collar is much more stiff than it should be. And there's something weird with the way they tell you to finish the front facing when attaching it to the front.

Also, it is incredibly boxy and shapeless. And making it a size too large doesn't help (it was cut out in a 16 and I really needed a 14). I really like the back vents and the idea of it -- and the fabric truly is awesome! I may go back and try to nip it in through the waist. Maybe. I don't have an issue walking away from a pattern that isn't working though. And right now, I have so much on my plate that it isn't a priority. I'll toss it in the naughty box for now and see if I want to bother with it when I have time to sew again.

Even so, I think my next attempt at a sleeveless jacket notched-collar vest will be from a different pattern.

***I received the fabric for free from Style Maker Fabrics in exchange for participation on the tour.
Pattern choice and opinions (as per usual!) are completely my own.***

There are 5 more stops on the tour, the lovely Lori of Girls in the Garden is up next!

I'm moving soon and in full-on crazy mode. Then I need to finish the prom dress. BUT! I have a couple finished projects though that haven't made the blog! So I'll be scheduling those to post over the next couple of weeks. And I'll only be responding to questions in the comments. They are all appreciated though! Know that!!

Weekend in Pictures & Simplicity 2700

Thank you, thank you, THANK YOU(!) for the kind words on my two new awesome dresses! :) I really love both of them and am grateful for the love!

I mentioned before that I am ready for spring and OVER my winter wardrobe. Trolling the stash, I found this brick-red wool/poly suiting from Fashion Fabrics Club. It was super cheap at $2.30/yd (they have good sales but I feel like their quality is far more hit-or-miss than Fabric Mart) but I scored and it was really great to work with!

It washed and dried well and sewing/pressing was no problem.

I made no flat-pattern changes from the last time I used the pattern (which was awhile ago and I don't have any of those pants in my wardrobe because they'd gotten too big and I'd taken them in once. A second set of alterations wasn't going to happen!). 

I ended up sewing 3/4" side seams on this pair though. I do *think* now that I can fix those high-hip wrinkles. I truly forgot how much I like this pattern. More of a trouser cut without being too full through the legs, and the nice, wide waistband makes them a hit for me.

These were hemmed long with a couple specific pairs of shoes in mind. But as you see here, I was losing daylight and just wanted pictures, so I grabbed the shoes I was wearing that day :) In the taller heels they don't pool at all.

I redid that fly topstitching once and wasn't going to redo it. I don't usually have an issue there so I can only assume I may have placed my zipper a bit too low, giving me an issue with the zipper stop.

I used these lovely shell buttons gifted to me by Carolyn -thank you again! :)

I left off the pockets and hand sewed the hem. 

I really love these and they look amazing with black/white tops -- of which I have plenty!

I started this Cynthia Rowley vest (S1756) that I have been wanting for a long time! I decided on this linen/cotton blend and I thought, "oh how cool! It'll be super casual and lightweight and..."

No.

It looks like a lab coat. 

Could be that I actually wear one but...Let me tell you; I am SO glad I didn't use patch pockets or I probably would've tossed it. The zippered pockets are the only thing saving it but I fear they aren't enough.

More on that when I finish it.

My wonderful, super awesome and fantastic daughter received her financial aid award package - 90% of her first year funded via scholarships and grants!

I am one happy and proud mama!!! And relieved! I don't want her to have the burden of student loan debt that I have!

I want this little decorative sailboat from Target SO badly but every time I see it, that uneven line of paint stresses me out.

Because I learn (sometimes) I cut out several samples of satin for the prom dress and tested needle size, tension, stitch length, etc.

I don't have adjustable presser foot pressure but I did find that the satin likes loose upper thread tension, a moderate stitch length and to be kept taut while going through the machine. Seams were pressed and flattened with my psuedo clapper (e.g. a thick but smooth block of wood!)

No puckers! YAY! 

I have Lily WAY tall in this pic so the dress doesn't drag on the floor. I have to press the top of that slit a bit but hadn't tested pressing on the right side so I didn't dare touch the iron to it, even with the press cloth.

I used lining fabric for the underlay -- there'll be a layer of illusion over that and then the lace. But it's far more sheer than I bargained for so I may go back and use the satin. Doesn't seem like the lace will do much for coverage.

Also, I did a french seam on the illusion and it looks terrible to me. Will see how I feel about it after I recut the front bodice in satin. Oh and the client decided upon seeing this that the underlay needs to be sweetheart.

The back will be illusion only with partial lace (e.g. maybe up to the waist??). Details, details... ;-)

This was me today. All day. Life was HARD.

Oh and I am officially out of the Wardrobe Contest. Booooo!

I knew I didn't have time to be going off on tangents with this wardrobe. And I also knew I didn't want to sew to create a wardrobe for the contest but rather I wanted to create a casual summer wardrobe and enter the contest. Since certain parts aren't coming together, no need to stress over it. Aside from the chambray top and the white vest, I LOVE every other piece I've made. So I'm just going to stick to the original summer plans.

OH! I have to blog the failed M6965. Perhaps with the chambray shirt.  A post of failures. Hahahaha!

February Wrap-Up

Well that month went by fast!

In February I sewed 11.75 yards.

• Simplicity 1430 shorts in red chambray - 1 1/8 yds
• Simplicity 1916 top in pink ITY - 1 1/4 yds
• Burda 1/2016 pants in tan cotton twill - 2 yds
• Butterick 6219 skirt in black/white striped ponte - 2 1/4 yds
• Burda 3/2016 top in striped jersey - 1 7/8 yds
• Burda 2/2016 top in black and grey ponte - 2 1/4 yds
• Burda 6717 skirt in grey ponte - 1 yd

Favorite: Aw man, it's hard to say! My work on the Simplicity shorts made me very proud! I ADORE the Burda athleisure outfit! And that Butterick skirt makes me HAPPY!!!!! Gosh and I love my Burda #trashbagtop. I can't decide. I just can't. February was a great month for me!

FAILS: None! Woooohoo! 

Accomplishments: After basting my Burda pants and having a wth moment when I realized the pattern was for stretch wovens, I made adjustments and made it work. I consider that an accomplishment! Also, for the first time ever, took the time to grade down a tall pattern (the sweatshirt) and it worked out just fine. Yay!

March Plans:

Hmmm...I'm still unsure if I'm going to finish the PR contest. I have 6 items completed (well, I have to do buttonholes on my chambray shirt, but that's not too much of a chore).  I finished the knit wrap dress, just need to wait to get photos.

I am swapping out one of my tops. I made up the body of the (barely) cropped Simplicity top but that ponte is just not good. It's kind of slick and slightly icky. Plus, I saw this super cool BCBG top I want to knock off and should it work out, I'll use that to enter into the Bargainista Fashionista contest too.

I am also swapping the romper for V8904 in striped jersey and the jacket for a sleeveless jacket vest. I was going to make this vest before so it's all cut out and adjusted, and the V8904 dress is cut out too. Hoping that moves things right along. (A girl can dream).

Using M6960 to knock off the BCBS top

V8904 will have sleeves

The updated color palette. I like it!

topper

dresses

tops

bottoms

Lastly, I am awaiting the lace for the prom dress. I'm dedicating weekends to prom dress sewing - no sewing for me, only for prom - until it's done. So again, Not sure if the contest will be completed. No worries though if it isn't. This was more about me having a fun casual summer wardrobe and all of these pieces fit.

There won't be a CF seam on the dress - I had to take a tuck down the front - which will be transferred to paper. And I'm sure on the actual dress my waist seam will line up. Hahaha!

She had on a sports bra on this pic which...the first time she tried it on with a regular bra, the bust didn't look so smushed. So I won't worry about that.

The sharpie line...I was going to take a tuck through the back but decided to just shave it off the center and that worked out fine too. 

Pattern Review Wardrobe Contest: Items 1 and 2

So with my hardcore, set in stone plan (ha!), I'm using 4 patterns that I've sewn before and 3 that I'm considering making a muslin for. Initially I thought I should just knock out the 'known to me' patterns first but, later decided to intersperse some of the more labor intensive projects in with the "quick and easy" ones (quick and easy tends to be Famous Last Words).

Since I've decided to devote weekend sewing to the prom dress once the fabrics are procured next week; I know that things like pants and button front shirts are excellent projects for me to work on during the week. I sew those in that '20 minutes at a time' format all the time.

So I did start with 'easy' this week because, Instant Gratification is my middle name.

Simplicity 1916 has been made 2 times before; once in an animal print jersey (which I wear ALL the time) and the other in a lace print ITY. I love this one too but with the lace+black+low cut, not very often.

I really liked this candy-pink ITY much more than I anticipated. And I know I'll really love it come summer when I get my 'glow'!

Again, major props for seeing the skills grow and develop! The first time I made this it took for-evah to figure out that front ruching detail. This time I looked at the instructions and boom! Effortless. I opted to leave the neck binding exposed and to do binding on the sleeve openings as well.

Definitely the sassy vibe I was going for!!!

Next up was S1430 shorts. After the Style Arc Jennifer fail, I had to jump right on these.

I sewed a size 18 with 3/8" seam allowances at the waist only. I kept the original length and 'stole' the side splits from the Style Arc shorts.

I also added welt pockets - yay me! And belt carriers.

I was going to do hook & eyes but decided they would look much better with a button. This is the mate to the button I used on my son's shorts with this same fabric. I can never let him know that we have shorts with the same fabric and everything! :-p

The only issue, I put the zipper down a bit too low. Otherwise I LOVE them!

bias tape to finish the facing

I'm so proud of my welts!!!

I realized after WHY the SA shorts were angled so much at the hem; so that the split could open. Dang it.  It's pretty cool finish though. I will be doing that again. I need some bright green shorts! :)

Look at that bar tack on the bottom carrier - so good! And then the top one misbehaved. But who has time to be removing bar tacks?! Pfft.

The last photo is before I added the carriers. I considered them done and was all OH! I meant to add loops! :) I just love the finishing on these.

I've been too blah for photos. Soon...

As for the remainder of my items:
a) New Look 6373 is in progress
b) Burda 1/2016 pants are basted and too small (the pattern was meant for stretch wovens!)
c) Butterick 6219 skirt
d) Simplicity 1070 top
e) McCall's 6965 shorts
f) McCall's 6884 dress
g) Burda 7136 (also made twice before)
h) Burda 4/2014 jacket (I may do an unlined jacket or a vest or cardigan)

The contest ends on Thursday, 3/31. But I'd totally have to be done before that last weekend to get photos. Stay tuned!

January Wrap-Up and Miscellany

My plans for January were:

• Burda of the month
• Fabric Mart garment
• S1374
• V9155
• Finish the quilt top
• Muslin DDs dress

Did not finish the quilt top. Not even close. I have not touched it in like 2 weeks. WAHHHHHHH. I also did not sew another pair of V9155. But I really need new pants that aren't blue, grey or black. Yes, I love those colors as neutrals but I'm over it! When you live in the tundra, your mind leaves winter behind long before spring shows up. So I'm ready to add to my pants wardrobe with a couple of non-neutrals. 

This month I sewed 12.5 yards:

• Butterick 6066 in a oyster colored crepe suiting - 2 yards (still need to photograph!)
• Simplicity 1364 in teal ponte - 1 3/8 yards
• McCall's 7199 in off-white ponte - 2.5
• Burda 01/2016 #103 in navy cotton lycra knit - 2.5 yards
• Simplicity 8014 in printed cotton poplin - 2.5 yards
• McCall's 7194 in off white lace print double knit and solid ponte - 1 5/8 yards
• I also started (and it will be finished this month...) the muslin for the prom dress. But I bought muslin for that so not counting it as yardage.

Favorite: Probably the Burda dress despite it's shortcomings :) It's just so cute!

FAIL: No huge fails this month; just had super high expectations of M7199 and it fell flat for me.

Accomplishments: Can I have 2?! OF COURSE I CAN! I have to say that exposed zipper in S1364. It really is a thing of beauty. Also, the fit I achieved on the bodice of the S8014 shirtdress made me proud.

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February plans of course are to work on my wardrobe for the contest and get started on the prom dress. Still sourcing fabrics, a trip to SR Harris is happening on Sunday!

Speaking of the dress...

I've intentionally not posted the dress I'm copying :)  I have asked for help on specific parts (like choosing fabrics) but I think that I may get information overload otherwise. So I'm just going to take it step by step and I'm sure the finished product will be pretty.

Can I just say that this is the first time I've ever actually purchased muslin!?  

I am absolutely in love with the whole concept now that I've gotten over my fear. DD is not impressed by the dress in muslin form. She also did not understand why I "thought" the hips were too big.

Well, let's see...YOU HAVE THE SKIRT ON OVER JEANS! lol!!!

Tonight I'll get the sleeves attached and the side seams sewn up in the bodice; and maybe even put in the zipper so she can try it on.

What I know so far:

1) I cut a 6 in the Simplicity skirt and a 36 in the Burda bodice. So the bodice is a bit bigger. I've pinched out the front mainly to line up the princess seams of the bodice with the seams on the skirt. I'll fit in on her with this pinched out and make other adjustments as needed. 

2) It's WAY too short! :) It sits about an inch from the floor right now. So we need several inches at least, to get it floor length when hemmed...but she doesn't have shoes yet so I'll have her go ahead and order those before I alter the length of the skirt.

3) As stated the hips are too big but the waist on the skirt was pretty perfect. We'll see how it all goes when the bodice and skirt are attached and the zipper is in.

4) The Burda bodice actually has 3/4 sleeves so I chopped them off randomly on the pattern; but in actuality it'll be more of a cap sleeve.

5) I must totally love this kid to collapse my dressform down to her size! Sheesh that's a lot of work with all those danged dials! The dress form hips are still bigger than hers...so Lily fills the skirt in a way she doesn't.

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DID YOU KNOW THAT CRAFTSY SELLS FABRIC?!

I though this was common knowledge but have run into 2 fabric lovers this week who wasn't aware so...public service and all that. ;-)

I scooped up 2 yards of Kaufman lightweight chambray for $17 with shipping. Much better than forcing myself to shop on Fabric.com and to spend $35 to get free shipping. Win. And it's exactly what I was looking for.

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I bought new shoes.

I know. I am always buying new shoes. BUT(!), I don't have any black sandals. I know, crazy right? And thinking up my summer wardrobe made me take a peek, and I found a pair that I love for a great price.

They're by Franco Sarto - $20!

The second pair sold out in between my purchasing them, and my order being processed :( 

Isn't that such a cute basic?!? They're Dr. Scholls

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The quilt. I swear I'm going to finish it. Swear. And I'd better start my son's right after if his have hopes of being completed by 2018 :-p

PR Wardrobe Contest & Fabric Mart Blog

I can't NOT participate in the PR Wardrobe contests - it's my favorite!!! :) 

So even though I'm going to have a busy couple of months (the contest runs Feb 1 - Mar 31), I just have to do it. Now, I had already planned to sew a new casual summer wardrobe this year. I have never quite gotten around to it as envisioned...or I end up sewing stuff that can also be worn to work.

I have a lot of work clothes (a lot). So while I'm not saying I won't sew anything for work for spring/summer - I really needed some weekend wear. 

I really want (need) to sew from stash so I'd initially got out fabrics that would work together and chose the patterns after that. And ended up with a plan that I loved. For work! The only thing in my original plan that wasn't also appropriate for work was a pair of shorts and a romper/jumpsuit.

So I revamped the plan to focus on what I want for summer and then had a big ole fabric picking fest last night. (Too tired to sew...son has been sick and I think he's shared with mama). 

There's a good mix here; 4 patterns that I've made before (jumpsuit, dress, sleeveless top, shirt), 2 Burda patterns, and a couple that's been on my radar for awhile (like the McCall's culotte shorts and the Butterick skirt).

**I switched out a Burda blouse for the Simplicity 2255 shirt in chambray

Okay, yes, there's a blazer :) BUT that is really needed and a white blazer makes an excellent topper for work and play (that's my story and I'm sticking to it!).

Simplicity 1070 won't be as cropped as the pattern/image suggests. I will lengthen as needed. And from the reviews out there, McCall's 6965 will need at least 2" added in length.

I'm cutting it very close on McCall's 6884 and the striped/floral fabric. If I have to, I will make the shorter dress (I don't want to though!!!)

The only thing I'll need to shop for is stretch lining for the white jacket (I'm using a cotton lycra twill that has more stretch than I remember) and buttons for it. All other notions will come from stash.

Here are the fabrics (plus solid black for the cropped top and contrast band on the skirt)

Stripe/floral ITY, Navy/white diamond print ITY, Floral print Rayon Challis

Cobalt blue poly crepe  blue chambray, White stretch cotton twill, Pink ITY

Red with white cross threads chambray, Black/white ponte, Bone cotton twill

I'm excited!

Head over to the Fabric Mart blog to see my project this month!!! :) 

I chose Simplicity 8014 (that new shirtdress!) in this bright, whimsical cotton poplin.

(and this is my 400th post! WOW!)

So-So Start to January

Well not quite. I have to hem my last B6066 dress and that is a success.

But these two items..there's nothing wrong with them. I don't dislike them...but I'm not moved by them, I don't love them, they're just okay.

I was so excited about M7199 when it was released. It was like so many RTW cardigans and like the popular Style Arc Marie

I had this striped crepe knit in the stash and a solid colored sweater knit that matched the darker color (the stripe). I wanted to make a shell and striped cardigan and decided this pattern would be a fun play on the stripes.

Everyone that made this mentioned that you'd want something drapey because of the large double-layered collar. 

However, that was a no-go with the zipper.

The zipper was just too heavy (even with interfacing), it was TOO drapey for me and way, way, way too long. 

I salvaged the zipper and tossed it. I decided to dive back in with a ponte but to skip the zippered version. And there was no way I was leaving it that long. 

The back is MUCH longer than the front but I liked the shaped hemline.  I couldn't figure out a way to keep the shaping but shorten the back as significantly as I wanted to. I started with removing 3 inches from the pattern pieces which did allow me to keep the front curvature but when I got the body sewn up that was still far longer than I wanted it to be so I chopped off ANOTHER 3".

That's SIX inches in back length removed!

I don't know about you but that pattern envelope does not make it appear that long. Yes, there is a back length finished measurement but still. :)

My ponte is a bit light and I didn't find it too heavy at the collar.

There's more 'swing' in that back piece than I like. Again, in retrospect this is obvious from the pattern piece. Not my favorite.

I like it open!

The facing is the front piece and lower side front only (not the upper side front). I edgestitched at the side seam and around the neckline to secure the facing. 

I remembered that I had this white leather scrap in the stash and decided to DIY a toggle button closure. 

My fabric is actually off-white but I knew this would work out okay.

When I wore it I figured out my mistake: The button side was supposed to be stitched on the other side of the seam. Ooops! That explains why it's a little too droopy in front when closed.

I love my top-stitching!

So again, no, it's not horrible or awful or the worst thing ever...but thus far, it isn't loved.

Following my January plans I cut out Simplicity 1374, which I mentioned was made before. I made it before in a cotton sateen type fabric. I decided to use this ponte for the color and had a matching zipper in stash so decided to go exposed zip.

Colleen G. Lea of Fashion Sewing Blog TV is theeeee best! I just love her tutes. Always clear and easy to understand! You Tube tutorial (nayy)

I've done an "exposed zipper" before because I thought: interface the area, line the zipper up, edge stitch.

Nope. Nope.  Nope!

It's far more involved than that but OMG it results in such a beautiful finish!

I can't stop staring at it! :)

It totally took like an hour to insert the dang thing but I don't really "need" to undo the zipper to put the top on. But it's fantastic!

I did a 3/4" swayback adjustment, lowered the dart about an inch, and sewed it with a 2" hem. 

The ponte had drape compared to the woven and it felt so unstructured. I thought a deep hem may help and it really did make a difference.

The NECKLINE! I do love that bateau on me!!!

Again, like the cardigan, just not a love. Nothing wrong with it, don't dislike it but...

I'm sure I'll wear it and absolutely love the color!