Burda Challenge 9/2016 #113

Sometimes a plan just comes together!

So far, I have sewn from every Burda issue this year (even October!). The moment this preview was released I was thinking "must make that dress. must." And then the tech drawings came out and it was a surety. And THEN, when I broke my fabric fast, I saw this printed ITY and knew that this would be one awesome dress.

I went with my normal Burda sizing of 40 neckline/shoulders and 42 for the rest. Especially with the skirt being gathered (vs something fitted). I made no other adjustments for fit. Next time (I can see this in black!!), I will take out about 3/8" from shoulder to bust and about 5/8" from the back length.

Speaking of...I'm starting to question if I actually have a swayback or if I just have a short torso. I mean, I know my torso is short, but is that the reason I have issues vs. swayback?? When patterns have a shaped center-back seam, I don't have puddling. And I often find after the fact, that I need to ALSO shorten a bit at the side seam. Same for pants...I need to shorten front crotch length quite a bit, but I also take out a bit at the side seam of front and back to overall shorten the length from waist to crotch. Ahhh...ruminations.

ANYWAY! Aside from wishing I'd taken out a bit of length in the upper bodice (or as a cheat taken deeper shoulder seams), I cut out my skirt rectangles and somehow managed to rotate the front skirt. When I assembled the back and went to put it on my dress form I stepped back and OOPS! LOL! The back was much shorter than the front. That also explains why I knew I'd cut the skirt to match the front bodice motif (mostly) and then it didn't. I just shrugged it off. :) So I have a few less gathers in front than intended. :)

We are heading into fall/winter so my photos will likely get progressively worse :( I don't have a good open area (that's what happens when you cut your living space in half!) and the sun goes down so early during the week. So you'll get to know my kitchen and yellow table well! :)

I ADORE this print and the overall color scheme!!!

The front IS riding up a little. Full bust problems. I'll fix that...

My super cheesy grin says it all! It's Love!

On the black version (whenever I get the fabric for it), I'll add a couple inches to the length. Though, by the time it's cool enough to wear this with the turtleneck and all, I'll likely wear tights with it anyway.

I finished the hems by double turning and stitching with a twin needle. I slip-stitched the collar facing down by hand. The instructions have you ditch stitch but that seems dicey with the type of fabric you'd likely use for this. No way was I going to try that with ITY! I did however attach the facing to the lining by machine. That was no problem. I always do this as a 2nd pass, so I can use the zipper stitching as a guide.

Oh and I did insert a full length zipper but it is unnecessary. A 9" would be fine. I'd also consider using a tricot fusible in the collar. The back stands up due to the zipper but the front collapses a bit.

I started my daughter's dress last night! I got the front and back bodice seams sewn and the front skirt.

 Today I hope to get the back skirt assembled and the zipper in. Then sleeves (they are raglan), skirt to bodice, side seams, neck binding, hem, done! By Friday night! :)

 Lastly, I was on the hunt for fun skirts (still) and dug up some older Burda mags that were gifted to me. ALL of these awesome patterns are from the 9/2007 issue. Burda always gets better with time it seems!  I think the pleated skirt has a place in my fall/winter wardrobe! I have a winter white pinwale corduroy that I think will be perfect.

Fall Sewing Update

Last we "spoke" I was whining about my lost mojo. Well, you all have been with me long enough, you know I found it!

That day I cleaned up the sewing room and started fondling fabrics - guaranteed ways to jumpstart missing mojo btw - and refocused on my fall plans. Of course I want to sew all the things, but I've decided to break them out into mini wardrobes. I am completely and utterly bored with my closet. It is time to start switching over. I've done a mini cull of things that have to go (for various reasons) and have some holes to fill.

• I do not need ANYMORE sleeveless tops/shells.
• I need more transitional tops (able to be worn on their own now but can be layered in winter).
• I am currently obsessed with not-full-length sleeves 

"The Blues"

Blue is my favorite color and "neutral". I have to stop myself from buying more blue fabric!

Simplicity 2369 (which I've made as a top and dress before and LOVE) in navy jersey.

This is cut out, pinned together and ready to serge. I was waiting on blue serger thread which - Wawak rocks! 

Butterick 5678 in a soft but completely opaque and sturdy cotton shirting from SR Harris.

This is mostly done. I have loads of topstitching to do (cuffs, collar stand, button bands) and then I can sew the side seams, set the sleeves and finish

I love Wonder Tape for collar stands!!

I accidentally sewed my laps backwards. Again. They're wrong on EVERY ONE of these that I've made. I always check first and still manage to sew them backwards.

Lastly, Kwik Sew 3558 jacket and matching pants from a blue/white mini check suiting.

KS3558 is pinned and ready to have the hems sewn - I'll be doing it by hand. Here it was when I messaged L (You Sew Girl) to ask what the heck was up with Kwik Sew and the ridiculous shoulder length. I narrowed them 1/2" on the paper and still had to go back and trim off 3/8". WOW! 

For the pants, I planned on V9155 which I've made before but ended up making a muslin of the In House Ellen pant. Aside from needing to add like an inch and a half to the back rise(!) and removing a little length through the back leg, they fit great. 

"Needed Neutrals" 

I don't have much tan/beige/brown in my wardrobe despite being colors that I like, and especially in fall.

Simplicity 1063 top in this animal print jersey. 

I was browsing my top patterns and I actually liked this one on me but hated the facings and never finished it. I have a plan this time around.

New Look 6481 jacket in a suuuuper drapey ivory suiting.

I knew I would make another jacket from this pattern and a trip to SR Harris last month yielded perfect fabric for it.

Vogue 9032 pants in taupe-y suiting. 

This fabric is an RPL that I've been hanging on it. I really like the feel of it and figured I'd better go TNT for it.

Butterick 5760 skirt in camel flecked wool suiting

This fabric feels amazing. I can't remember where I got it (maybe Sawyer Brook?). It was expensive so I bought 1 yard for my TNT skirt. It will be fully lined.

"Funky Fun" 

Burda 9/2016 #113 in this printed ITY

I think the pattern has a retro flair and this fabric does too! I can't wait to sew this though I have a tiny bit more time before I can wear a turtleneck dress, even in the tundra.

Okay so, I just want to sew this plum crepe. I have no pattern in mind. LOL!

Vogue 1465 turtleneck top in moss green ponte

I've wanted to sew this one for awhile now. I may make a matching pair of slim pants with the remaining yardage. I love that color!!!

 "But Wait! There's More!" 

Swoon Scarf Neck Cardigan in black burnout jersey

Because it's burnout! So fun!! This is a quick project so I'm sure it'll sneak in somewhere sooner rather than later.

Ottobre 5/2016 sweater in textured double knit

I think the pattern is meant more for a jersey but no matter. I'm going to have a super cuddly sweater from it!

McCall's 7430 dress in grey ponte

Part of me wants to make the sleeveless version for ease of layering and part wants to make it sleeved. We shall see!!!

Burda 10/2016 raglan sweater in black/white double knit

I envision this as a layering piece over my button front shirts or long sleeved tees. I'll crop the sleeves (I told you!) to just below elbow length.

I am on a self-imposed spending hiatus --- I'm not even biting on 60% off wool knits at Fabric Mart...or Cashmerette's new pattern...I didn't even buy any Burda patterns at the JoAnn sale last weekend!!!! --- but the one RTW item I'm on the lookout for is a camel sweater. J. Crew has it's Tippi sweater for $79.50 plus 25% off but there are lots of complaints about the redesign. Turns out they narrowed the sleeves. I CANNOT afford narrower sleeves. I have large biceps compared to the rest of me. I may swing through TJ Maxx/Marshall's this month/next month to see what I can find.

Speaking of RTW...I always get my Burda magazine and Redbook on the same day.

THIS SKIRT!!!!! I love everything about it. I have a similar fabric, though it maybe has a bit of metallic thread running through it, and I hope to copy this this fall/winter.

Similarly, I loved these J.Crew pants and though I absolutely cannot bite at $135, I decided I'd watch them for a sale. Well, the largest size they come in is too small for me. Booooooo! 

Other Stuff:

• I still need to post my chambray New Look dress.
• I hope to finish my Butterick jacket before it gets too cold (it's ready for the lining to be bagged and I bought snaps for it - Wawak! Yay!)
• Had some "life" happen last weekend and completely forgot about OWOP so I didn't participate this year.
• SewPhotoHop is still going strong! I think I only missed a day.
• Carolyn's pattern giveaway closes tonight! Head over there if you haven't yet!
• The first challenge is up on the Fabric Mart blog. I want that sweater knit. Those ladies did some awesome stuff with it! Be sure to vote!
• Week 2 of the Pattern Review Sewing Bee is up - they have to make bias cut garments. OY!

Until Later!

All the things...

WIP! FAIL! Success!!

I decided to enter the Pattern Review skirt contest because 1) I need more summer skirts and 2) it's sponsored by Fabric Mart (what?!). I decided on Burda 6769 in a dark denim.

I haven't had a ton of sewing time the past 2 weeks but got started on this last Sunday. I'd gotten the front pockets done and for some odd reason thought I would finish this on "cat lady Friday" (that's how I now refer to Friday nights as both kids normally work til close!). What on earth was I thinking?! Pfft. All that top-stitching AND my old machine is being a bugger and so I have to switch between regular and top-stitching thread. Boooooo!

Last night I got the side seams sewn. I really wanted to top-stitch them because of how they wrap around to the front but not sure I can sew inside the tube neatly. And THEN I ran out of top-stitching thread. Sheesh. So I have to grab more today and hopefully can get it finished.

I took a TON of photos while this was in progress so be prepared for a hefty blog write up.

Progress shot posted on IG

I need to get started on M7167 if I'm going to have that ready to wear on Thursday. I also need to get more party stuff and get a bunch of boxes out of the dining room (that's the only room that isn't fully unpacked).


One of my May items was this M7386 skirt. I just loved the look of it and thought it would be cute. Well, this is not the first time I've tried a maxi skirt on me and hated the outcome. Maxi dress? Sure. Skirt? Meh. This fabric (from Fashion Fabrics Club) was awful too. Which I'm sure doesn't help.

I cut out a size L and sewed it up.

And then went back and removed about 3" total from the side seams. I didn't finish the waist before taking these pics because I won't wear it. I just don't like it at all.  I may finish it for my mom though. But I'd have to lose like 3-4" from the length and I don't know how that'll affect the shape of it.  We'll see if I get around to it...

Do I have curves? Yes. But I am still quite rectangular in shape. And this OVER emphasizes that. I don't fancy looking like a column. Even when it's pretty flowers ;-)

Win some. Lose some.

Lastly, I sewed up S8138 in an olive crepe georgette and wore it to see Queen Bey! last Monday. Read all about that project over on the Fabric Mart Blog.

Wagon Tumblin'

I've been very, very good about not purchasing fabric but I am itching for warmer weather and warm weather sewing.

When I started the PR contest I was determined to sew from stash. But we all know the temptation of NEW fabrics, right?! :)

I had a free shipping offer (for premium members) from Fabric Mart. I have been looking for *this* green gingham cotton shirting for AGES! Not lime green. Not hunter green. Just a nice spring green. This FM offering was made better by the fact that it's seersucker. Perfect for a casual top!

And then I looked at my other favorite categories - sateen, crepe, challis, ponte, double knit, jerseys and ITY knits. I know I probably missed out on some good knits since that sale just ended but probably all the better for my wallet.

peach crepe, green gingham shirting, 'papaya' jersey knit 

berry sateen, grey geometric double knit and army green crepe

M7167 jumpsuit, S2255 shirt, M7350 dress

V9032 pants, B6244 jacket, Burda 4/2015 dress

My spring/summer sewing doesn't appear very cohesive, I know, but I am filling gaps. I have things to go with these things -- and the items I've sewn for the wardrobe contest) -- plus I've filled a few holes with some RTW purchases. And a little splurging too.

J.Crew has never, ever been on my radar because OMG the pricing! But I saw this gingham jacket and just about keeled over from swooning so hard. It was steep, for sure, but I signed up for a credit card (don't worry - I'll pay it off asap! LOL!) for the 15% discount.

It's really, really, lovely!

It's a linen/cotton blend with lots of fun details. The jacket is unlined but the sleeves are faced AND lined. It has an optional drawstring across the back. I thas the fun pop of color in the bias tape and it fits very nicely (save for my bionic biceps).

I have a few things I already envision pairing it with so hopefully it'll be featured as part of some cute outfits soon!

On the cutting table is my TNT skirt, B5760 in this yummmmmmy denim look boucle from Fabric Mart:

Front and back of both shell and lining are constructed. Have to sew side seams on both, sew them together, and hem.

Now, if only spring would come back to the tundra...

Rounding Out October and RTW Snooping...

(this post has a lot of words!)

My failed Edith had a bit of an effect on my mojo. I couldn't work up the energy to start anything but that's okay because I had some minor mending to do and need to FINISH my NL6261 dress.

This is the type of thing perfect for sewing in 15-30 minute increments! I'll detail my timeline in the review post.

I am ecstatic over the fit through the back. No swayback wrinling. Yay! 

Post fish and chips belly non-withstanding :)

I managed to get just a touch of the white stripe at the side seam and it tricks the eye. dang it. The dress feels amazing on but I was thinking it was snug through the hips...but it is NOT the hips...it's my thigh. You can kind of see where my quads are just pulling the fabric forward a bit. I've already serged the side seams though so at most I can get about 1/2" and not sure all the unpicking is worth it. 

I'll try it on a few more times before hemming it, sit in it, etc to see how it feels. 

*******

Next up will be a blitz of NL6301. It has favorable reviews so far and I love all 4 views. 

I'll be using this green diamond print ponte I got ages ago from Fabric Mart for the sleeveless version. I envisioned it with my new thrifted blazer.

I will also be making views C (black) and D (cobalt) for my sister. 

Now, my sister and I aren't close. People seem to interpret that as 'we don't get along', but that isn't really true...we just aren't close. We never have been, not even as little girls. It's like extreme 

personality differences. So much so that it is almost comical! Shared parents, only 5 years apart yet light years away in who we are. But! she is starting a new job after a long period of unemployment and my thought process was:

I should make her an outfit! 

But I like surprises so it should be a surprise. 

Wait, sewing for someone else as a surprise is hard. 

Okay, then it has to be a knit. 

Wait, it has to be a dress. 

Okay maybe a knit top and skirt? 

But she wouldn't like an elastic waist skirt. 

Can I brave it and make a woven skirt? Heck no. 

Ok knit dress it is. 

NL tends to have a broad neckline/shoulder so I'm going to wing it and take a wedge out of the front to ensure it won't gape and narrow the shoulders a bit.

On sizing? Well...I don't have her measurements but ponte! :) I would take a 16 in this pattern and DD would take an 8 if she wore this kind of thing so I'm going to guess that my sister would need a 12. That seems about right.

So I plan to have an epic wrap-dress sewing weekend. I want to have hers in the mail by Tuesday at the absolute latest and prefer Monday.

*******

After that it'll be DD and mine's TNT M6964 pattern. 

I tested the Appleton dress for Cashmerette (I liked it and will remake it...just hated the fabric used for my muslin and the fit wasn't quite right. So hope to find something appropriate for it soon!)...Jenny sent over a paper copy of the final pattern and the bird fabric used in her model's version here:

Link to Photo

It's very nice jersey but I am just not going to wear a dress from fabric with birds on it (or owls or cats or pineapples or anything like that). No offense to anyone!!! It just isn't my thing. 

However! I will make a casual item from bird fabric! :) So DD and I will be twinning it in matching tees--she LOVED the fabric! I think mine will be long sleeved because the black/white will look cute with my vests.

*******

I have become obsessed with gingham. I need(!) a navy or black gingham top. I really liked this one at Target. It was $22.99 in store and on clearance for $6.88 online, but only in a XS! Booo!

I'll have to make my own. I might splurge on this purchase (let's just discuss the fact that it's been 10 weeks since I've purchased fabric, not counting lining for my Minoru!). So it won't necessarily be cheaper but it'll fit great and last awhile.

Bored on lunch yesterday, I went to the mall. I have never shopped Lands End and Sears had a bunch of stuff on clearance.

I really liked these white jeans! (I have one leg cuffed as they were pretty long). The waist was too big (of course), so I put them back. Blergh on the alterations. But I really liked them and should have snagged them for $13.99! whine!!

Then I went to the GAP which used to be one of my favorite retailers. They were having 50% off fall clearance and I saw lots of cute things. 

I really loved the color of these pants and was dubious about them fitting when I held them up. Well, they are basically jeggings. So, no thank you.

The peplum top was $10 final price and I was *this* close to buying it. Until I realized that in the 2 minutes I had it on, I tugged it down like 3 times. The waist seam hit at an odd place. I made myself put it back. If it is annoying to wear, I will rarely wear it and then the $10 isn't a bargain!

Lastly was this really cute sweater. It had split side seams finished with huge snaps. So cute. But you can see it's a bit snug and riding up in front. There was a crazy difference between the Medium and Large. The L looked oversized and sloppy but the M was tight. So weird.

So even though those  4 things would have cost under $60, I'm glad I didn't buy them because my car shut off today and then smoke was coming from under the hood.

Adult-ing is totally for the birds.

WIPs and What Not

At the end of September, I had no definitive plans for October other than the Burda pants and Lekala jacket. But I can't sew any pants right now, as much as I want to.

I hate alterations. I know it's really whiny to complain about ripping out a few inches of stitches but MEH!!! With the exception of the very 1st pair I made, I need to take in all of my other V9032 trousers. Taking daily photos of my outfits has made this more important to me. I hate that my pants are droopy in the butt! I like my pants fitted, so this is not working.

As a palette cleanser (haha!) I cut out a pink version of B5678. Yes, a button-front shirt with collar and cuffs...Oy!  It's actually done now and awaiting buttons and buttonholes (I'm being gifted pretty shell buttons!); but I took this pic the other day and just never got around to writing this post until now.

My husband was genuinely disturbed by the color choice. He said I don't wear much pink and asked "But what will it go with?!". Oh boy...it will go with black, gray, tan, brown, blue, some prints...it will go! :)

As I neared the final stages of this, I was really uncertain of what to sew next. I'd posted this pic on IG for suggestions. 

Many suggested a jacket; but it's only 3 yards. And no way can I match the stripes on the front, sides, facings, sleeves...on a jacket with only 3 yards

Many others suggested a cape. I am not too into capes but even still, this is Minnesota! A cape will be good for about a few weeks at best. Then it won't be appropriate again until late April/early May. 

Husband suggested a skirt. I was sort of leaning towards a bias cut skirt or wrap skirt or something that breaks up the very regular plaid/stripes. 

I got the suggestion for a sheath and decided on that with New Look 6261 (made previously here)

This is only the front. He was adamantly shaking his head no. I told him that I like it, it's kind of preppy! He said, the preppy look is so 90s.

Oh boy.

THE 90s ARE BACK! Clearly he is not keeping up with fashion trends :-p

I've always like layered looks but always felt I was too columnar and too busty. But last year I started layering lightweight merino sweaters over my button fronts and loved it! So this is a trend I am kind of eager to try. And surprisingly, aside from 2 evening versions, I have no sheath dresses.

I was going to make this dress in navy before and something went wonky with the hips and I just hung it in the back of my closet and never finished it. But I have tried it on a couple times. I had almost decided to just finish this one, but I never staystitched the neck and armholes and they're probably all stretched out by now. Anyway, here is a version of B5678 under a version of NL6261

Looks better with the sleeves rolled up, IMO.

My sew-jo is on it's coffee break right now. Since the fabric is wool, I'll be lining it. I keep telling myself "all" I have to do is cut and sew the lining. And attach it. And insert the zipper. And hem it...and it'll be done. That's all. ;-)

We will see what, if any, sewing I get done this week!

I Hope I Don't Regret This

My mojo has been non-existent this week.

After finishing my pants (thank you for all the nice comments, by the way. I have worn them twice this week. Yes, I know it's only Wednesday...but I Love them so.), I wanted to get started on 1 of 2 fall jackets I want.

Now, I love coats. Love. I own a lot of coats/jackets. Like, A.Lot. Coats and shoes have always been my 'thing'. Bags? Meh. Give me a beautiful coat!!!!

I have this Via Spiga coat that I just cannot part with even though I can't fit it anymore (it's a RTW 10).

I have always adored that subtle print and it was just the perfect little topper for fall and spring. 

I planned on the Sewaholic Minoru in a water resistant linen in tan/beige with a cheetah(?) print lining and S2508 in this cotton floral faille.

I bought this faille back in December 2013. But it was all metallic and OMGHOWWILLISEWIT?! Well, I suddenly got the urge to use this fabric now. Like, now. And was going to make S2508 (the pink coat) but with the ruffled sleeve

But no matter how I laid those pieces out, I just didn't have enough fabric. I also decided that the faille might not look good with the raglan sleeve. So I nixed it.

I love coats, remember? And I have a lot of coat patterns(!) I still bought a new pattern. WHY does this happen!? I was waiting for my daughter and was browsing the sites and decided on Butterick 6141. But since I'd just ran out to pick her up, I looked a hot mess. My son went into Hancock, found the pattern and bought it for me!

He's redeemed himself just a tiny bit with that one ;-)

I've spent daaaaaaays (whine) trying to force myself to get started. And so I decided to get it going. I don't love the lining fabric I chose. It seems so drab?? I'm hoping that I didn't force myself into a bad spot! YIKES!

So I hope to get that finished before September rolls in. Fingers crossed!

**************

What did I do with my few mojo-less days?

Moved some stuff around in the sewing room:

I'm shopping for a dresser or file cabinet for pattern storage. I'm tired of shuffling bins around to look for stuff!

I like the sewing table in this corner more. I need to pull it away from the wall on the left a bit (my chair keeps rolling over the vent in the floor). I also need to move my ironing board to *this* side of the mirror.

And that fabric was just in various boxes and bins and UGH! I am annoyed with my stash right now! I am going to try to pick up an IKEA Kallax shelf for my fabric. Well, for a good portion of it.

I moved the cutting table over here. I think once I buy some of the larger storage pieces I'll move the cutting table away from the wall. 

 Knitting:

I did NOT understand this pattern when I first started it (about 8 months or so after learning to knit). I'd gotten like 50% done and the pattern was just off. So I stuffed it in a bag! Well, with my hand issues I haven't knit in almost a year and was itching to do so :) I decided to finish this because I wouldn't have to do the ribbing! LOL!

So I frogged back and started over. I have messed up SO many times since picking it back up! Sheesh. But, It's almost done (I've started the decreases) and I'll have a super cute hat for fall/winter!

Making dessert (It's not really 'baking'):

I had an overwhelming urge for banana pudding. So I came home and whipped one up! :)

New Beginnings!

I had my last interview on Tuesday and then sat on my thumbs waiting for the next interview THIS Tuesday. I had so much nervous energy and pulled out like TEN sewing projects! Hahaha!

I got three sewn and 2 in progress. All patterns I've sewn before with some tweaks. Because I GOT THE JOB!!! the over abundant sewing will slow for a bit. I have just over 5 weeks of intensive training with the current person before she retires.

I'll get these 5 items blogged over the coming days, as I get pictures. The horrific photo quality you see? That's as good as it got today as it is so overcast.


1. Butterick 5760 skirt - mod includes lining. Still needs finishing

2. McCall's 6519 woven pullover top -mod is that I made it in a drapey sweater knit. Still needs finishing

Vogue 9032 pants  - made the view with the pleats. Finished. 

RTW Knockoff top - Love. I may wear this for my first day! Done in a black rayon jersey. Finished.

Butterick 6183 top - made in a woven this time (as intended per the pattern). Done in a pindot cotton poplin. Finished. 

I was certain I would reward myself with new fabric if I got the job...but I'm totally leaning towards jewelry and shoes! I am more excited than I should be about wearing normal (e.g., non safe/comfortable) shoes!