7th Heaven; Vogue 9032

Yep. Pair #7...True TNT style! Hey, I love this pattern!

I made the tan pair.

This fabric is AWESOME

Then the charcoal heather pair.

this fabric is pilling :(

Then the denim pair.

Then the black pair which I never reviewed because...what new thing was there to say?!

I wish I had 27 yards of this fabric. I wear these All.The.Time.

I made the blue pair when I made my suit

But then I realized this wool/poly/lycra grows. And grows and grows. 

So while the jacket is okay, the pants and skirt are a bust for that reason. They're like 2 sizes bigger by the end of the day :( This fabric should've been reserved for something else. Live and learn, right?

Next I decided I should make the other view and used a dark teal/blue fabric.

I took these out of my wardrobe and then put them back. 

We shall see...That pleating at the waist isn't my favorite

I'd detailed my August sewing plans (which were almost completely executed...) and this gray suiting was slated for another pair of V9032. I wanted another light colored pant after the suiting pants became a fail.

I was gearing up for an afternoon walk; thus the Farmer's Market tee :)

This pair has pockets (that makes 4 with, 3 without). I have to redraft that pocket or maybe try a welt. They just don't sit right...Bleh. But I needed the pockets!!! 

No real changes other than making these fit a little more on the snug side. I've gotten really serious now (I started and fell off early this year) about losing weight for my knees. I'm down just under 6 lbs this month so I didn't want to end up not being able to fit them soon after making them. 

This fabric feels really nice so, let's hope they last awhile! 

Insides are all serged, hem was catchstitched by hand, Oh! I still need to make the buttonhole on the underflap thingy. 

I've mentioned it before but, I just love making pants a "weekly" project. A little bit of time goes a LONG way to getting them finished. 

• Sunday I cut them out (I just had enough fabric so there is no pattern matching).
• Monday I did the pockets.
• Tuesday I did the zipper and attached the waistband (I attach them to the individual pieces and sew a continuous seam rather than assemble the pants first).
• Wednesday I basted the side seams and sewed/serged all the other seams.
• Thursday I sewed the side seams.
• Friday I altered the side seams :-p, attached the facing (sewed, understitched, stitched in the ditch) and hemmed them.
• Saturday I sewed the hook & eye.

I have to make another dress for my daughter (seniors ladies wear black on the 1st day of school) and I was thinking of abandoning my other August plans to get a kick start on my September plans...but then I got the urge to knit. So I'm working on a hat :)

Butterick 6183, Vogue 9032 and RTW

Thank you everyone for the well wishes on the new job!

The first "week" (2 days!) went very well. It's a small, quiet office that's really close to home. It only took me 5 minutes to get there in Friday traffic! I am impressed by how well they treat their employees. The digs are decidedly un-fancy, but not only do people hang around and retire from this place (shortest tenure prior to myself and a new IT person that started recently is 13 years) but they close the week between Christmas and New Year! I have not heard of non-manufacturing environments doing this for a long, long time.

I hope to stay here for AWHILE!

When B6183 came out I thought that top was absolutely everything. I made it before in ponte because I didn't want to muslin it :)

This time, I used a cotton poplin with a tiny polka-dot print.

I cut a size 16C (I said recently that the D cup has too much projection for me)

1/2" swayback (need 3/4")

1/2" narrow shoulder

added CB seam

eliminated the zipper and used a hook and eye closure

used my paisley bias tape :)

There's a little excess fabric like I need a tuck at the armscye

Normally I don't really care about my serger thread...but the next few projects I had in mind were light colored so I had a combo of taupe and cream loaded and used it.

But every time I see the inside of this top I'm all O_o LOL!! 

I wore this outfit on my first day and felt great!

I have sewn several pair of Vogue 9032 pants and wanted to try the pleated view. Halfway through making them I went to try them on and absolutely hated them. But since I loved the color and feel of the fabric I decided to finish them anyway, even if they became a wadder. 

I tried to convert them to darts based on great suggestions on IG, but that seemed to highlight my tummy pooch even more than the pleats. 

So, I do not hate them but I hate the pleats. I will wear them only with tops long enough to cover them. 

The top is my copy of the RTW top I made for the Fabric Mart contest last year. Not long ago, FM had knits on sale and they had a black rayon jersey. For SOME reason I only ordered 2 yards. I kept looking at it and thinking, I need a black top but I need to make the "right" pattern. And then it hit me...use the RTW top!!! :) So glad I did. I foresee this one getting lots of wear.

The left is the RTW top and the right was my first version. 

I followed it up with a taupey colored one from a liquidy rayon jersey which I love.

And funnily enough, while going through OLD pics today on my laptop trying to find one of my dad and me, Lookey at what I found:

I had THREE of them before! Hahaha!!!! Smart lady! ;-)

A Different Kind of Mini Wardrobe...

First, I won 2nd place in the Wardrobe Contest on PR! Wooooohoo! Prize is a $75 gift certificate to Fabric Mart. You all know that's right up my alley! :)

There was some pretty strong competition over there and if you haven't checked out the entries, you SHOULD!

*****

My last attempt at an interview suit didn't make me so happy but I had to persevere and make another one! I decided on the Burda 3/2014 jacket and my TNT straight skirt, Butterick 5760. The weather had been absolutely dreadful here so I decided to make pants too! I used my TNT Vogue 9032.

Fabric is a wool/poly/lycra from Fabric Mart. Cut well. Sewed well. Pressed amazingly. I wore the pants to the interview yesterday and boy did those puppies grow! Wah! I came home and popped them in the dryer (to satisfy my own curiosity) and they fit fine. So we'll see about THAT.

Today I wore my red S1696 pants made from RPL and after about 2 hours they grew. This is why I avoid Lycra in my pants and especially in jeans. Where's the "comfort" if they can't make it through the day?!?! Whine...

B5760 skirt was made the same as here, the only change being a 1.5" hem instead of 2".
V9032 was made the same as previously...I left off the pockets and added belt carriers.

Even with TNT's, side seams get basted before being sewn. My pants have a 3/8" seam at the waist, 1/2" through the hip and 5/8" down. My skirt has 5/8" seams through waist and hip and 1" through the rest.

The jacket was muslined (as per my last post) in a size 42 and I ended up with the following changes:
*3/4" swayback
*taper the princess seams -- front and side front -- from 1/8" at the shoulder to 3/8" through to the waist, tapering to nothing.
*added 3/4" to the bicep on the sleeve. I measured and got 14 3/4" but somehow told myself it was 14 1/4". So i wanted a 15" sleeve. It's a little loose but doesn't look oversized. I made this adjustment on the upper sleeve only.
*I used 1/2" seam allowances and ended up using 5/8" at the front of the sleeve.
* I traced the separate facing piece but lost it during the cutting process...so I have excess at the shoulder seam on the facing. OOPS!

I am such a Burda fan.

It is an unlined jacket so I took the time to bind the back seam allowances; all others are serged with a narrow 3-thread overlock. I am really loving this jacket!

The photos!!!!

No, I didn't wear my FitBit to the interview! :)

All hems were done by hand

Just a little extra fabric in back.

OH the fight I had with this notched collar! It was my own fault; I'd sewn the wrong portion of the collar _and_ trimmed it back. I probably should've just cut a new collar and been done with it!

4 3/8" snaps as the closure

Pretty binding!!! You can just see the longer facing peeking through on the left :)

I probably should've done a slip-stitch. But I will usually wear the jacket closed so...

I ended up wearing the pants to yesterday's interview and will wear the skirt to the next one (different companies)

Skirt bias binding; top finished with button and elastic loop

I am really digging lapped zippers lately! :)

More binding on the waistband of the pants!

SUPER happy with how neat my fly-front turned out...

...less so about my machine stitched blind hem.

I'd run out of time and had to hem these by machine once I decided I was going to wear them. I was literally sewing on the last hook and eye about 90 seconds before I had to leave out the door.

Things went really well and the (90 minute!!!) phone interview I had today for another position went even better! I have a second interview tomorrow and an in-person for that job next week. Both plan to make a decision the week of June 8th at the latest.

Mini Wardrobe Complete!

I talked about my mini-wardrobe plans here and after my muslin for V8597 wasn't promising, I revised the plans here. And then the Belle blouse didn't work out. Oy!

So then I went and bought two white tees at Target. I picked up size L. Got home, tried them on...disaster. Returned them for XL. Got home, tried them on, very snug at the bust and too big through the shoulder. Returned them. Got a different style top in a L. Got home, tried it on, disaster. It is awaiting return.

The IH kimono tee has become item #7! It's a much "sportier" look than I originally intended but it's fine.

S1945 cardigan in black/gold sweater knit from Fabric Mart (review to come)

M6996 cardigan in animal print rayon/poly/lycra from Fabric Mart (review to come)

M6078 top in mustard rayon jersey from SR Harris (review to come)

IH Kimono tee in mustard & grey rayon jersey from SR Harris (previously reviewed here & here)

B5493 top in teal rayon jersey from SR Harris (previously reviewed here)

V9032 pants in black wool blend suiting from Fabric Mart (previously reviewed 1, 2, 3)

Style Arc Sandra jeans in non-stretch dark denim from SR Harris (reviewed here) 

I won't actually be wearing these sleeveless tops to work without a cardigan or jacket. And obviously these things work with some other stuff already in my wardrobe.

Uhmm, can we talk about how great these Vogue pants make my butt look??!!?!?

Definite TNT. Because I have lost a little bit and (thank goodness) I tend to lose right from my belly first, my other pants from this pattern are a bit loose at the waist so I made these a little smaller. They're snug but that's better than me having to go back and take them in. I hate adjustments.

I wish I had 10 more yards of this black suiting. Washed, dried, sewed and pressed perfectly. Bravo Fabric Mart!

B5493 was made previously June, 2013. I wear that top often and LOVE this version with the full ruffle. I cut the ruffle with my rotary cutter for a nice, crisp edge  and left it unhemmed (I have a couple of RTW knit tops with ruffle details; the ruffle is unhemmed).  Don't look too closely at the V-neck and the top could be a smidge longer.

IH kimono tee, no changes - meaning I forgot, again, to add more sleeve width. DOH! I think I spent more time stitching and ripping out that vneck than on the rest of the top combined :( I need some practice with that.

I hope to do this again as we head into summer, so I will have fewer closet orphans.

Revised Staycation Sewing Plans

I had it all planned out, I was going to sew and sew and SEW!! But my parents are coming!!!!

I only get to see them once a year -- maybe twice if I'm lucky -- and they will be here for 4 days over Christmas - YAY ME!!!! I'm not a 'mama's girl' or a 'daddy's girl', I'm just my parents BABY GIRL and I am so happy when they are near. Ahhhhh...

So I decided I need to get some things started sooner. I cut out all of the new-to-me patterns while catching up on Hell's Kitchen with my daughter, and on Friday, I muslined the Vogue top.

Well, this is what really happened:

Self #1: hmmm...do I REALLY need to muslin this?

Self #2: remember all those recent revelations about you and the tops you've sewn...

Self #1: yeah but look at how straightfoward this is...and the finished measurements look good.

Self #2: I don't know... it has that odd construction AND raglan sleeves...how will that work?

Self #1: Meh. It'll probably be fine.

Self #2: But you REALLY love that teal jersey...

Self #1: Ugh. FINE.

So into the knit scrap bin I went!

(sorry for the toilet)

Bleh. LOL!

I don't dislike it, but there isn't enough room, Something funky is happening at the front raglan sleeve (too tight across the bust?) and in the few minutes I had it on I must have adjusted that cowl like 13 times.

I think I would love it a size bigger, with a rayon type knit, and tunic length. So I might make it again.

PLUS, I did not like the idea of it with cardigans. And that made me rethink the tops I chose and how they would layer. Minnesota = layering. Period.

So I changed things up a little bit. And chose a different cardigan with a "collar" and another shell vs. a top with sleeves. I need more solid colored shells anyway.

Same color scheme because I really like it

M6996 in animal print

M6078 in mustard

B5493 in teal

S1945 in the black/gold sweater knit

Belle: Still in white challis

Sandra: Still in denim

V9032: still in black suiting

I am still quilting the quilt. It needs to be complete by Thursday morning. I did NOT quilt on Sunday and instead decided to start the "easy" knit projects.

Well, they went so fast! (YES L! THEY as in multiple! lol!!!!)

I was going to "sew the major seams" of M6996, M6078 and B5493.  And ended up finishing the cardigan and the mustard top. B5493 still needs finishing.

I WILL muslin the Sandras this weekend.

Sneaky peeks, reviews of patterns to come!

here the cardigan is unfinished

finished!

Win Some, Lose Some: Vogue 9032, InHouse Kimono Tee, Butterick 6104

Another pair of Vogue 9032 pants! Dark denim so details were hard to capture...however I love them -  of course!

We shall say I put the fly shield this way on purpose; a design feature of sorts!! ;-)

Can never get that part of the waistband to turn when I use contrasting fabric for the facing. I don't tuck shirts so it's not a big deal but...grrr!

I added 1" to the waistline as I was afraid the denim wouldn't have enough give. I don't think I needed it...

These are an awesome addition to my wardrobe!

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Earlier this week, Pattern Review had 20% off all pdf patterns and I had PayPal money 'burning a hole'. I went ahead and scooped up the In House Kimono tee (and the Named Jamie jeans).

When I should have been quilting; I was sewing a new tee! 

I have a lot of this animal print fabric (I made capri length leggings for pj pants from it) and knew I would have a black scrap big enough for the yoke. I decided this would be good muslin material -- if it failed I could have a crazy animal print pj set and if it was good I would have a cute little tee!

And SCORE!

The medium has a finished bust of 43.75" AND the same measurement at waist and hem. In some magical, mystical way, this shirt manages to be boxy and flattering. I really, really like it!

I think the center front is a tad too short (but I like the slight dip in the back hem) and I need some more room in the arm opening. 

Gathers at the shoulder? Awesome

V-neck? Awesome

Speaking of...I've not yet sewn a v-neck and was a bit nervous to do this one! The instructions were straightforward but I still managed to screw it up a bit. I did this part on my machine (no way was I going to attempt it on the serger!) and it's *okay* but I know I can do better. I'm almost certain it will not stop me from wearing this tee. tomorrow. 

There's a seam at center front and back. You could eliminate the CB seam if you weren't going to say, do a swayback adjustment or if you are using stripes and aren't trying to have extra seams to match up!

Again, this pattern is drafted for a D cup which is a total and complete WIN for the busty! 

*****************

Yes, I did say you lose some.  I finished my B6104 jacket and was so excited!! But it doesn't work. It just does not work. It fits so differently from my red one and I don't like it :(

I'd worked pretty hard on it too!

Looked good here...

Pretty insides!

The faux-pels...

I made a 1/2" shoulder pad and pinned it in on the right side so keep that in mind when you look at these photos! LOL!

ALL of these pictures to show that no matter what I did, I STILL did not like it.

Hopefully I can find it a home.

*I bought my denim fabric from Hancock fabrics and animal print knit, brown wool and pink pongee lining from FabricMart! :)