An Oldie But Goodie...McCall's 6886

I really like the fit on this pattern and it's versatility. I have yet to make the v-neck version - one day. I've made this 3 times and whenever I finish one I think "I should make another one!" :)

This pattern has 124 reviews on Pattern Review, some of them multiples - it's a solid pattern.

As per usual, I sewed a size 14/16/18 - 14 at the neckline/shoulder, 16 at bust/waist and 18 through the hip. I make the neck binding based on amount of stretch in my fabric.

I got the bright idea to have the larger ruffle finish off the neck binding - it worked out beautifully! Yay me! Then it sat for a long time awaiting sleeves once I realized it was semi-sheer. When I came back to it, lightbulb! Finish the sleeves and hem the same way! LOL!

I used a twin needle and had a ton of tunneling. With this fabric, it works.

I was going to make a slip but just never got around to it. And then I ended up finding this Vassarette slip for $9. I'd still like to make one though. I went with a size L and the fit is okay. It's "reversible" for the neckline (straight or V) but that means the front and back piece are the same otherwise. So I technically don't have enough butt room. But $9 and I can wear my dress - win!

Also, here are better shots of the Burda pants. I ended up adding the bands to fix the length issue I created. They're okay but I won't make this pattern again. Too much work for just okay.

I had taken all these pictures inside and then my daughter pulled up. I ran outside to try to get her to take pics but she was "SOOOO HUNGRY!!" so I got one (good one!)

Love that outdoor lighting!

The side panel is ridiculous being a simple rectangle (on a Plus pattern at that!).
There are so many seams! I was sewing and sewing and sewing. MEH! Side panels connecting to front and back, the inseam, the front waistband, the yoke, the back waistband, the hem bands, stitching the rows of elastic...just sewing and sewing and sewing and serging and serging and serging.

SO many seams

OK fine, I'll stop whining now.

I do like the elastic back but still...that's because they choose a rectangular back waistband instead of shaping it.

I've done the x wrinkle adjustment and always have some. I don't care about minor wrinkling like this though because I don't stand, stock still, knees locked in life. So when moving, walking, sitting...they're fine.

I've given up on the idea of a woven slim fitting pant. I don't like stretch wovens very much for my bottom half. I'm going to plan to get some of this (AWESOME!) DKNY thick wool ponte knit from SR Harris. They had black and charcoal which are perfect. I'll go that route for fall/winter.

We can't take down any of the remaining graduation decorations until she leaves next week :)

More next post on the W.G.D. (it's on Saturday!) and I'll review my super fantastic Kwik Sew skort!

Sometimes I Get Too Excited...

We knew that from my last post though, didn't we?

I finished the Burda dress - LOVE. Need to get photos.
I also finished the Style Arc skirt - Really like. Need to get photos!

But the more I started thinking about fall sewing, I couldn't stop thinking about what I was hoping would be a part of my fall sewing, the plus sized pants from the August issue of Burda.

I really liked them with hem band and without and looked forward to making both views. I was surprised to see a 17" finished hem because they look slimmer...yet on the modeled photos it's obvious they're just barely tapered. 

I was NOT happy when I learned that the side panel is a "drafted" rectangle. I did not have high hopes for that working well when there's butt, hips and thighs to cover. 

I was intrigued by the pocket but right after cutting them I had second thoughts -- Always listen to yourself!

So there were several issues with the pockets:

1) The front pattern piece and pocket piece are NOT curved to create an opening as the drawing suggests. They have straight edges and they connect to the rectangular side piece. So it's a 'regular old' inseam pocket and it doesn't work well.

2) It connects to the rectangular side piece. So no markings. This became an issue when I realized the rectangle was "drafted" to include a self facing. But I lined it up with the top of the front waistband and used the front pattern piece's markings to place the pocket in the side piece. 

3) They are in a weird spot. Here the drawing is accurate. The pocket sits right across the crotch. Just WEIRD!

I really wanted to share a pic but couldn't bring myself to post it. And they have all already been deleted from my phone. The horror. 

They were neatly done though! LOL!

I kicked so much butt matching stripes. Dang it! 

This is the yoke in back

I then ripped out ALL of the pocket stitching and sewed up the seams. I then had another issue with the rectangular side piece. I was looking at the measurements for the pair with the band. Doh! So I had to chop off like 4.5" in length. 

So now they are a bad length for the hem width. I decide I'll just go ahead and add the hem band to this pair and finish stitching up the vertical seams.

I don't love them.

They are *ok*

sorry for the shoe collection! LOL!

I kept this one for the pants but the face I was making in this photo was all sorts of crazy!

I think I will finish them (if I can figure out what Burda wants me to do with the back waistband).  If you look at the photo of the yoke stripe matching you can see that it has an elasticated back waist. But Burda's instructions make NO sense. It's horrible.  

The good:

-This fabric. Swoon. It's a wool blend suiting from FM with a light grey pinstripe on a medium grey. It is really soft but sturdy and presses so well. 

-They are fine. I can incorporate them into my wardrobe so it isn't a total waste.

-They fit very well in front and they are decent in back. I removed 3/4" from the front rise and added 3/4" at the back. I also added 3/8" at the crotch extension in back and scooped the back curve a little. Burda does include the instruction to stretch out the back inseam which really is necessary for a closer fitting pant. I could use a full inner thigh adjustment. I need to make that a part of my regular adjustments! I always forget.

The bad:

-I don't like Burda's random zipper placement choices! LOL! Though there's not a lot of options here...there's an invisible zipper on the left side between the side panel and back piece. Again, it's okay but it's just awkward. 

-I wanted a slim-legged, close fitting pant. Which I am starting to wonder if that's even possible without a bunch of Lycra. So they aren't exactly what I was looking for.

-If I want to make this pair wearable I have to add the hem bands. 17" is too wide for this length. And I don't wear capris so shortening them isn't an option. 

Fall hopes and dreams dashed! :-p

I really wanted a slim-legged, close fitting, fly-front pant. Which I wonder if I should revisit Burda 1/2016 and try to make those work. They have a lot of seaming though which feels more casual to me. They have a side panel but it is shaped and darted, allowing for a nice fit.

A bit tight in the thigh and a bit baggier at the knees than I'd like.

And I feel like, for a slightly tapered pant with a side zipper, that V9155 is a better option:

They fit me pretty well and they have GOOD pockets! :)

I have 3 finished projects to blog and I need to get going on the wedding guest dress. Which, I visited SR Harris and found no knits that I loved for the option 3, fun flirty Burda dress. But I also couldn't stop thinking about Vogue 1447 and as I was leaving the store, I happened upon the lace aisle and nearly gasped at this pewter lace. After I cut my yardage (you do it yourself!), I was waiting to check out and wandered over to the silks. Okay...they cut the silks (and anything over 5 yards). I thought, hmm, this is a pretty color...and when I draped the lace over the silk, two people came over and swooned over the combo. I was SOLD!

Wait.

I was sold on the idea. The lace was $5/yd and I got 2.5 yards. The silk was $15/yd and is 44" so I'd need, what is for me, a lot of money worth of silk! The store was closing and I chickened out and put the silk back. I got out to my car and wanted to run back in for that fabric! 

I have to go in that direction on Saturday and hope it's still there. I should go early :)