Monday, April 20, 2015

Insta-TNT; Butterick 5760

I mean, is that really possible?!? 

I have every single Butterick wardrobe pattern I could find. There are some great things in there. Even if it's only 1 or 2 pieces, at a less than $2 price tag, it's usually worth it for me if there's a single gem.

I bought this pattern for the cardigan 


While browsing the collection looking for a skirt pattern, I happened upon this one. 


Hmmm. Look at that nice straight skirt. Look at that cool waistband. It's a nice length...it only needs 1 yard of fabric for all sizes. SOLD!

I first cut it in this striped cotton and used a size 18 based on a finished hip of 45.5". I removed some length from CF but did not add to CB. After basting the side seams, I ended up with 3/8" waist seams tapered to 1.25" side seams. I kept the 2" hem (LOVE!) and removed some of the extreme hip curvature.


I did a centered zip and top-stitched hem and just serged the edge of the facing.


Definitely consider this on the more 'casual' spectrum of things. And I think it'll be super versatile in my wardrobe.

I was all, "what is that poof of fabric..." and then remembered that you were to ease in the front waist to the yoke. I do not like. 

On Version 2, I removed that excess ease and shaved off the hip curve. I also cut the front pattern piece down to a 16 (keeping the back an 18). The front wedge was made at 3/4" and lowered the darts an inch.

This fabric was picked up from the remnant bin at SR Harris. OMG it's so awesome! It's some sort of suiting that is nice and thick but not heavy, has a tiny bit of stretch, washes and dries nicely and presses well.


I used a contrast facing this time and bound it with bright blue bias tape.

I also did a lapped zipper and added a button and loop at the top.



Another GREAT staple in the closet! And bottom #2 in my wardrobe contest entry. I also started cutting my jeans out today. 

Ahhhhh.

If you have this pattern (it is OOP now) and want a straight skirt, try this one out!!!






Sunday, April 19, 2015

PR Wardrobe Contest; Vogue 1411, Burda 6911, McCall's 6839

I was veering wildly off track for a minute but pulled it together!

Last I mentioned, my wardrobe was this:


M6996 did not pan out and I still need to finish the M7121 dress. I sewed M6969 jumpsuit instead.
S1916 was replaced with M6839 and V9032, while still being sewn, will be replaced with B5760 in black.

So I still have to make the skirt and the two most complicated items; the jeans and jacket. If I start the jeans tomorrow, they should be done by the end of the week. [I have been spending about 2-3 hours job searching (ok, the first few days was seriously just updating my resume/cover letter. What a CHORE!) and 2-3 hours sewing. ]

And then a quick muslin of the jacket and I should be done with my wardrobe before April is up!

*****************

Burda 6911 was just made recently, blog post here. This time I used an icy grey rayon jersey from SR Harris. I still couldn't figure out a dang-blasted FBA on this pattern! I studied it and studied it and was like, whatever. I sewed all seams as 1/4", shortened the top 1" and used a 1.5" hem.

Dear Burda, how long do you think we are?!

I shant complain. I am sure taller ladies are having to lengthen much more often than I have to shorten!


I didn't have a ton of this fabric (kicking myself because it's awesome!) so the sleeves were chopped according to remaining fabric.

*****

Next, I sewed McCall's 6839. I really loved this pattern when it came out but never really thought to sew it.


I sewed view C and was all prepared to need to add length to it because it "looks short". But the back length is 23 3/4"!

I thought this would make a fun summer top and the front boatneck allows it to be work appropriate too with a jacket or cardigan.

I sewed a size 16 which has a 39" bust, so just a tad of negative ease there. I could have graded out below the bust or sewn smaller seams because it fits snugly through the tummy and hip too.

LOVE the neckline - front and back!

Dislike how they had you attach the ties. It just isn't clean. Also a little iffy on the positioning of the ties but that could partly be due to body type (slanted, forward, narrow, broad, etc shoulders).

Chopped off 1" and did a 2" hem.

I would sew the a longer version with sleeves as a fall tunic. Really like it. Also, this jersey is fairly lightweight but those ties still got bulky. I will keep that in mind for next time.

*****

I wanted to start my jeans SO BADLY on Saturday but my hands were hurting and I didn't want to aggravate them. I cut V1411 instead. This is my 3rd pair :)

When I got this fabric I was crazy about the feel of it but not the color. I was actually going to make a hoodie for my son with it but then he asked for red shorts instead (which I still need to make. shhhh).

I decided to leave off the top stitching this time and I added 1" to the length. I still ended up with 5/8" hem allowances. Sigh.

Based on the fit of the other two pair, and the fact that I was using 1" elastic, I sewed the waistband to the pants with 3/4" seam allowance and sewed all seams at 5/8" (last time I think I sewed smaller side seams).  I also cut my elastic about 1.5" smaller. All seams were sewn on the sewing machine with a zig-zag, pressed open and then serged and pressed to one side. I stitched in the ditch on the side seams to secure the elastic and again left out the crazy tip about elastic at the crotch seam. No thank you. I HATE that in the burgundy pair and decided today I'm going to unpick it.

These feel nice and snug without being tight and I really, really like them a lot!





They look really cute with the black/white/grey (and combos of the three) tops in my closet. Also very cute with my Butterick moto jacket!


This is the face you make when you see forest creatures in your back yard while taking pictures. I am a city girl. C.I.T.Y. How I came to live so close to wildlife is beyond me.

One important thing to note...when I first sewed these last year, I was sure that I had made some sort of mistake. Now, I am fairly certain that there are notches that don't match up on the some of the front leg pieces.