Saturday, May 9, 2015

McCall's 7094 (And the Start of MMM'15)

When this pattern came out, I bought it, got home and cut the pattern pieces out. But the fabric I wanted to use wasn't going to work for the view with sleeves! So I used it for M7093 instead :)

I searched and searched and searched my pattern and magazine collection for a pattern "with a yoke and gathers and a band that I could contrast". This is the one flaw with having my entire collection on the Pattern Review site; all of the views of the pattern aren't on the photo. On the line drawing, sure, but I didn't even THINK about this pattern until someone posted a review a few days ago (Aleah at No Time to Sew). YAY!

I wanted to use this crazy vibrant challis I bought at FabricMart last year sometime with black as a contrast. I cut the pattern in a medium (I almost always take a medium for my 39.5" bust). The finished bust was 48" which sounds really excessive but I knew that the small (44.5" finished bust) would not leave enough room for my full bust. There are gathers in the back and that "excess" is more in back than in front. I also knew that the size small shoulders would be too small.

I removed 1" from the back pattern piece; for a total of 2" removed. This took me down to a 46" bust but gave me the much needed space for my full bust.



Just a tad bit of riding up in front still!


It really sits nicely over the butt. I think it was getting caught on my leggings...


The instructions, unfortunately, don't give the 'burrito method' for the yoke; I don't know why the Big4 won't update that already. It's SO easy and takes no extra time!!!!

I used solid black for the interior yoke as I didn't want the spots to show through.

overexposed!

 I was going to use french seams but this fabric has some body to it and probably would've added bulk so I just serged my side seams after sewing. I made bias tape from the black challis for the armholes as you can see...

That challis was a NIGHTMARE on the band. I had to keep the pattern piece with it while interfacing and sewing the collar/facing because it kept getting distorted. As a result it is not super-neat. But it's black and doesn't look bad on...just up close with over exposure.

I also feel like the explanation of how to handle the front/neck bands wasn't perfectly clear. Lots of pinning, double checking, stitching, double checking...

OMG same with the placket/front band. I love that detail but can't seem to execute it well. I spent a LONG time on this unpicking and resewing and unpicking and ended up having to remove my pleat basting and just adjust that front pleat to fit because I was going mad.

Speaking of the front pleat, I don't love it...it just kind of billows out. I stitched it down the first inch and a quarter or so and that seems to help. Another good pressing may work wonders too. :)


1) A not so neat junction
2) PLEATS!! :)
3) I tried like 8 times to get the right to fully overlap the left and gave up. 
4) reduced gathers


After all the drama, it was time for the easy, peasy part, side seams! LOL!


The yellow chalk line is the 5/8" seam.
The first line of stitching was my basting
The second line is where I ended up sewing my seams, using my french curve to blend


Because it was mostly trial and error, I lined the sides up as best I could and used tracing paper to transfer the new stitching line


Can you see the faint blue marks??

I am absolutely IN LOVE with this top!!! And have plans to make another - soon! As soon as this contest is wrapped up! :)

Definitely recommend this pattern, even with the fussy bands!

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If Me Made May makes you stabby (stabby: The feeling that you could grab any nearby sharp implement and stab the nearest thing which may or may not include yourself...) you can click away now!!! LOL!


Day 1: S1980 top and Sandra jeans
Day 2: S1676 dress (with a jean jacket)
Day 3: Burda 6911 with RTW skirt (LOVE this outfit!)
Day 4: In-House Kimono tee with RTW jeans
Day 5: NL6108 top, B5760 skirt and RTW cardigan

Day 6: Burda 7866 top and KS3115 pants
Day 7: M5890 dress
Day 8: Head-to-toe!! B5926 jacket, M6927 top, V9032 pants
Day 9: S2054 tunic





Wednesday, May 6, 2015

Escape from the UFO Box! New Look 6108 and Simplicity 2443

I was in that moment where I wanted to sew all the things but I know that I want to consciously add new garments to the closet. Not just sew and sew and sew.

Well, I DO want to sew and sew and sew but...I don't want to create a whole bunch of orphans. I totally want to add more dresses though and am auditioning some patterns.

I decided I needed to tackle some of my UFOs. And then I wondered why I had so many things that were seemingly awesome at the time, languishing.


Mint light ponte peplum (needs finishing;hems and neck binding)
Colorful ITY dress (needs hemming)
Drape top in striped jersey (Needs a new neckbinding and hemming)
Cowl top in ITY (more info below)
Wool jersey cardigan (needs sleeves and then finishing)

And the S2443 jacket that I started last June. I can only imagine this jacket scared me off because of the sleeve detail. I had not done plackets before at the time that I cut this and was probably intimidated.


But look at that placket of awesomeness!!! :)




At the time I remember doing some fitting but honestly cannot tell you anything besides:

I cut a size 14
I did a narrow shoulder adjustment (1/2" is standard for me)
I remember fitting the darts to me vs. sewing them as marked.

But that's it.

I ended up lining my pockets because I was having a tough time shaping them; that worked out well. And instead of turning the little (useless) stripes between the pockets I just folded in half, stitched a 1/4" seam to the jacket front and then folded down and topstitched around -- much cleaner.

Once I started on the sleeve I realized my big ole arms weren't going to work with the band as sized. But the sleeves are gathered so much that I just 'added' 2 inches via releasing some of the gathers.

I realized after doing some awesome stitching that I was supposed to use two D rings. Oops. So I did some more awesome stitching to just hold the tabs in place.



The verdict: I LOVE IT!!! I'm so glad it fought it's way out of the UFO box!!!!!

Next up was the New Look 6108 cowl necked top in the printed ITY. Another one that was started many months ago.

I had accidentally serged the cowl facing to the back armhole and got all disgusted and threw it in a box. Again, so glad I didn't toss it because I really like this fabric! Although I have to say I like the M6078 cowl top better. It just drapes/sits better. But the fabric!!!!!

I wore it yesterday with my black skirt and a grey cardigan to an informal interview with a recruiter. The lady in line in front of me had on the tightest pants ever and a top that was shredded in back. Guess I'm a little different! LOL!


I've now given myself one more thing to sew for the contest because I've decided I have to have this top. 

Hope to get all my photos done by this time next week because next Thursday I'll be picking my mama up from the airport - YAY!