Burda 3/2014 #101 WIP .and Round 2 of MMM'15

ETA: DanvilleGirl is hosting a pattern giveaway on her blog, check it out!

I've found another cute option for a suit. I knew I wanted a more 'feminine' style jacket but wanted it to have a collar. I decided on this unlined jacket from the March 2014 issue and while I'm afraid of that pleated skirt on my non-flat-tummy body, I really like skirt #104 from the same issue.

Or I can use my TNT B5760

I'm not sure which way I should go!!!   I'm going to make the suit with the straight skirt. I really like that flouncy skirt and will make it soon, just not for the interview suit.

I found SEVERAL finished photos of the jacket on the Russian Burda site and decided I needed it NOW. And then....THEN...

I made a muslin.

Oh yes. Yes I did! :)

I had this (weird) cotton in my stash from a FabricMart bundle and it was perfect for this. A little more stiff than my fashion fabric but otherwise about the same weight. I cut a straight size 42 and the only change I made off the bat was adding 5/8" to the sleeve width

Too much fabric in a few places...

I removed width from the princess seam from the waist up, slightly narrowing the shoulders along with it. I made a 3/4" swayback adjustment and took an armhole dart. I saw these lines in FFRP and it suggests adding a little to the back of the sleeve. I won't re-muslin; but will add a little bit to try to eliminate those wrinkles.

Ahhhh. YES! :)

Sure, I thought about it after that I made the changes on the side without the sleeve. So I have the seam allowance folded over. There's still a little bit of excess but  1)the lapels are large and will cover that area and 2) my RPL has a bit more drape and should lie more smoothly over the front than the stiff cotton.

I started sewing the jacket today and should be able to finish it tomorrow and get the skirt muslined. I have two interviews next week so it needs to be ready to go! :)

MMM Days 10-21

Day 10: New Look 6130 with Vogue 1411

Day 11: Style Arc Sandra jeans with Simplicity 2153 jacket

Day 12: InHouse kimono tee

Day 13: Burda 2/2014 top

Day 14: Vogue 1395 dress and McCall's 6996 cardigan

Day 15: Simplicity 2443 jacket and Style Arc Sandra jeans

Day 15 continued: New Look 6130 top

Day 16: New Look 6373 jumpsuit

Day 17: New Look 6104 top and McCall's 6996 cardigan

Day 17 continued: Simplicity 1803 dress

Day 18: McCall's 6389 top and Burda 6907

Day 19: S2255 top and V1411 pants

Day 20: Burda 7136 shirt and V9032 pants

Day 21: McCall's 6996 cardigan and Simplicity 1696 pants

McCall's 7094 (And the Start of MMM'15)

When this pattern came out, I bought it, got home and cut the pattern pieces out. But the fabric I wanted to use wasn't going to work for the view with sleeves! So I used it for M7093 instead :)

I searched and searched and searched my pattern and magazine collection for a pattern "with a yoke and gathers and a band that I could contrast". This is the one flaw with having my entire collection on the Pattern Review site; all of the views of the pattern aren't on the photo. On the line drawing, sure, but I didn't even THINK about this pattern until someone posted a review a few days ago (Aleah at No Time to Sew). YAY!

I wanted to use this crazy vibrant challis I bought at FabricMart last year sometime with black as a contrast. I cut the pattern in a medium (I almost always take a medium for my 39.5" bust). The finished bust was 48" which sounds really excessive but I knew that the small (44.5" finished bust) would not leave enough room for my full bust. There are gathers in the back and that "excess" is more in back than in front. I also knew that the size small shoulders would be too small.

I removed 1" from the back pattern piece; for a total of 2" removed. This took me down to a 46" bust but gave me the much needed space for my full bust.

Just a tad bit of riding up in front still!

It really sits nicely over the butt. I think it was getting caught on my leggings...

The instructions, unfortunately, don't give the 'burrito method' for the yoke; I don't know why the Big4 won't update that already. It's SO easy and takes no extra time!!!!

I used solid black for the interior yoke as I didn't want the spots to show through.

overexposed!

 I was going to use french seams but this fabric has some body to it and probably would've added bulk so I just serged my side seams after sewing. I made bias tape from the black challis for the armholes as you can see...

That challis was a NIGHTMARE on the band. I had to keep the pattern piece with it while interfacing and sewing the collar/facing because it kept getting distorted. As a result it is not super-neat. But it's black and doesn't look bad on...just up close with over exposure.

I also feel like the explanation of how to handle the front/neck bands wasn't perfectly clear. Lots of pinning, double checking, stitching, double checking...

OMG same with the placket/front band. I love that detail but can't seem to execute it well. I spent a LONG time on this unpicking and resewing and unpicking and ended up having to remove my pleat basting and just adjust that front pleat to fit because I was going mad.

Speaking of the front pleat, I don't love it...it just kind of billows out. I stitched it down the first inch and a quarter or so and that seems to help. Another good pressing may work wonders too. :)

1) A not so neat junction

2) PLEATS!! :)

3) I tried like 8 times to get the right to fully overlap the left and gave up. 

4) reduced gathers

After all the drama, it was time for the easy, peasy part, side seams! LOL!

The yellow chalk line is the 5/8" seam.

The first line of stitching was my basting

The second line is where I ended up sewing my seams, using my french curve to blend

Because it was mostly trial and error, I lined the sides up as best I could and used tracing paper to transfer the new stitching line

Can you see the faint blue marks??

I am absolutely IN LOVE with this top!!! And have plans to make another - soon! As soon as this contest is wrapped up! :)

Definitely recommend this pattern, even with the fussy bands!

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If Me Made May makes you stabby (stabby: The feeling that you could grab any nearby sharp implement and stab the nearest thing which may or may not include yourself...) you can click away now!!! LOL!

Day 1: S1980 top and Sandra jeans

Day 2: S1676 dress (with a jean jacket)

Day 3: Burda 6911 with RTW skirt (LOVE this outfit!)

Day 4: In-House Kimono tee with RTW jeans

Day 5: NL6108 top, B5760 skirt and RTW cardigan

Day 6: Burda 7866 top and KS3115 pants

Day 7: M5890 dress

Day 8: Head-to-toe!! B5926 jacket, M6927 top, V9032 pants

Day 9: S2054 tunic