Thursday, October 10, 2013

Butterick 5926 Progress and Fall Sewing Plans

So.

I decided to make this jacket. I generally need a size 14 in tops. I should probably do an FBA but instead I just usually grade out to a size 16 for the bust. Okay I choose the pattern and look at the finished garment measurements  - I have a 39.5" full bust measurement and the size 16 measures 42.5" - perfect. 3" of ease in a "fitted" knit blazer should do just fine, thank you. Now, I have a 36" upper bust measurement (hence my size 14 choice) and a 34.5" underbust with 34.5" waist. (Yes, I know I need an FBA, okay?! lol!)

I matched well to the finished bust, waist, hip, bicep, back length measurements of a size 16 - yesss! So last I post I mentioned that I forgot to take the measurement across the back and that it was "a little wide". Well, that was without the sleeves and everything.

As you know, it doesn't count as much until it's all done. Adding the final details will alter the fit, sometimes in ways you couldn't foresee.

Anyway, it's not a little too wide...it's a lot too wide. Like AN INCH too wide - at each shoulder. DAMN IT!! And after doing the collar and redoing the collar, I'm not going to try to fix it. I know, I know. I thought about taking it in at center back just a bit...but I don't wanna. I don't want to undo the work because that collar almost did me in.

I should have done what I always do; cut a size 14 through the neck and shoulders and grade out from there. Meh. MEH!

I just need to slip stitch the collar and facings and hem it all. Perhaps I'll give my fancy twin needle a whirl in the machine. Here's an "almost done" preview:

 See! Look at how wide it is on Lily!!!
The "bubbling" is because the facings are sewn but it isn't hemmed.
 
I kept getting confused on the collar and then finally just put the jacket on my dress form and did what I thought made sense. It works.

LOOK! Perfectly set sleeves!!!
 
You wanna know about my sleeves, don't you? I know...
 
This time I actually did two rows of ease stitching instead of 1. I gathered it, pinned the heck out of it, and sewed it like the pic below instead of putting the sleeve around the free arm of my machine. As I sewed (slowly!), I eased out any fullness with my fingers. I am very pleased with the results. No puckers or pleats!!
 



I won't have time to finish it tonight so I'll plan to wear it Saturday. I have a lunch date with my daughter :-)

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Upcoming sewing plans? A little bit of SWAP'ing. I am making this grey blazer, finishing my grey/black version of Simplicity 2700 (pants) and making Butterick 5678 (button front shirt) in a light purple and knit tees (Kimono tee?) in black and white. That's one mini capsule. Next plans include a brown/neutral mini capsule with a pair of pants, a vest and two tops.

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In knitting news, her first sock is almost done and I don't think it'll take err...3 weeks to knit number 2. I am quickly becoming a sock addict.

11 comments:

  1. Great progress! Isn't it wonderful what we can accomplish when we take our time? I am just amazed that you can actually knit socks. The furthest I ever got with knitting and crocheting (as a child) was making neck scarves and hats. Versatile skills are good. Feel proud Mrs. Smith!

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    1. Thanks Robin!! It is amazing to have this entire range of skills!

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  2. I love your jacket! I want to try and tackle this pattern as well.

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    1. Thanks!! It's a good pattern neemie! That collar though...sheesh. Next time I might get help on it.

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  3. I know how you feel - I have narrow shoulders and run into this same problem.
    Also, my arms need a bigger pattern size, so it gets really confusing!

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    1. You and me both Chris. I have narrow shoulders with a slope and the left one does so more than the right. On short sleeved tops I have to cut a larger sleeve size to give my biceps room.

      Goodness gracious! :)

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  4. Those sleeves look amazing! Great job.

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    1. Thanks Beth! I just realized today that you are the 110 Creations blogger. Don't know how that connection wasn't made before. I adore your blog. Keep sewing!

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  5. Hello again! I'm about to start cutting this out and I'm concerned about the shoulder width. You mentioned it's too wide for you and I'm almost always running into this problem, even with basic knit tops. Can you give me some advice?! :) Baste all the seams, take some from CB? What would you do differently?

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    1. Since making this pattern, I've been doing narrow shoulder adjustments of 1/2" on my tops and am much happier.

      If you've already cut the fabric, I'm wondering if you trim width, whether or not it would affect the length of the armhole too much. If you can measure that and check that out maybe?

      Otherwise, I would try taking a slightly deeper shoulder seam and CB seam - at the basting stage - and go from there.

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    2. Thanks for the help! Looks like this project is on the back-burner anyway...I didn't order enough fabric...grrr!

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