Tuesday, February 18, 2014

Sewing ADD; Burda Style 02/2014 #111 Muslin

When I got home yesterday it was still daylight (at 5 p.m.!!!) I took the opportunity to trace off another pattern from the February 2014 issue.

Apparently when you realize the Burda mag tracing isn't that bad and you do it once, you become addicted to it and want eleventy patterns from the magazine and you want them NOW! So you exhibit sewists ADD and have far too many things that you want to crank out.

This issue has SO much good stuff in it and one that I absolutely love is the square neck dress, which is #112.

112_0214_b_large
It's so sweet and romantic looking! Yes, it's boxy...can I pull it off??



 






I decide to start with the top - less commitment. 



It didn't take long to trace the pattern out and I cut it after dinner, while my kids were in a weird way...he was HELPING her clean the kitchen! They were also in full on goofy mode.
  
I had this thick black (twill?) remnant in my stash - just over a yard - and managed to JUST eek the top out.



Now, the top does not fit as badly as it appears in that first pic. I usually have my daughter take pics because hubby doesn't get that I need him to stand up and take them. He's sitting or lying down and I get Oompa Loompa effect.

BUT, it IS too big at the neckline, the armholes sit really low and there is too much fabric in the back. But then the front is riding up (I cut a 42). I posted on PR if I should do a 40 with an FBA and was told it looks like a tilted waist issue, not a full bust issue. Thoughts??

Also, The back isn't too tight but holy moly, the sleeves ARE. I think they are pulling the back making it look tight. I had to have him pull it off of me because I couldn't lift my arms enough to get it back off!

I really want this top and the dress!  I love the little sleeves! Although they are only a rectangle that has been folded over and gathered...

**Oh, it should be noted that it is intended to be cropped - the back length is only 16"

Also - and if you have this issue that might help - the sleeve is one pattern piece that you then divide into two pieces...only to sew it back together. Is there any reason I can't leave it as a one piece sleeve?

16 comments:

  1. I so need to subscribe to Burda, they have such cute things...I'm no help in the fitting department, but can't wait to see the dress; it's so cute!

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    1. Super cute patterns! But I am so used to the Big 4 that it is an adjustment. Whew!

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  2. I'm also not much help in the fitting department but I also love this dress! I have the magazine and am planning to make it in lace, a super girly lace-y ruffle-y dress :)

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    1. I bet it's going to be so cute Carrie! Can't wait!

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  3. Ooookay. You asked! I don't think the pattern as a top is flattering - with or without an FBA. The dress, on the other hand, has much more potential. You're curvy, like me, and benefit from patterns that accentuate those curves. The dress can be belted and accessorized with lots of sparkle and kickass shoes or boots. I can totally see this in a nice ponte knit.

    As for the sleeves, try doing a full bicep adjustment. This would give you width in the bicep area so that the sleeves aren't trying to borrow fabric from the back.

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    1. You know I wouldn't ask of I wasn't looking forward to feedback!

      But I STILL need to figure out the bodice issues to make the dress :/

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  4. I love Burda (though I have yet to sew something for myself)!! I am no fit expert either, but I do remember my instructor in my Craftsy class recommending to start from the shoulder seam before moving on to other corrections, as getting this area to fit well will often correct other hang issues of the garment. Since this top has a raglan sleeve, I am not sure how this can help, but I suspect the tightness of the sleeves could be where a lot of your fit issues are coming from. I look forward to seeing what you end up doing to address the fit for this top. This is a nice top, with potential!!

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    1. Thanks Vanessa!

      Based on my HB measurement I need a 40 neckline, 42 bust and waist and 44 hip. Which makes sense! Duh. In Big 4 patterns I often cut a 14 neckline/16 bust & waist/18 hip.

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  5. I love this dress pattern. once you get the fit down [don't you just hate that part.yuck..ha]
    I bet it will be one of your favorites.. super cute.. I need to do the burda magazine too. But scared of the tracking.ha
    Happy sewing.

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    1. The craziness that is fitting.

      Sewing = 95% stuff other than sitting at the sewing machine to sew. :)

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  6. I am so excited to see someone making this. I want this dress and I'm just waiting for the right fabric.

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    1. I have absolutely no place to wear this dress but it is fabulous and I want it.

      That is ALL! :-)

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  7. I'm so glad you've caught the burda tracing bug! I can't wait to see all the awesome stuff you'll make!

    To me, the difference in the front and the back is definitely related to your bust. You look like you're similar to me - I am short waisted, but large busted, and by some miracle they seem to cancel each other out in Burda patterns in the center front, but I do have to raise the waist in the back. One of the pattern pages in the Burda mag has a very detailed size chart, which I find very useful, because unlike the Big 4 it includes lengths as well as circumferences. By trial and error I have found that either a 38 or a 40 fits me. A 38 matches my high-bust measurement, so maybe that's a good way to pick your size? Then FBA if you need extra room in the front.

    If you do use a larger size to accommodate your bust - I've found that it's amazing how much better I can get something looking by taking a fisheye dart out of the back once it's otherwise finished.

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    1. A 38 would be a better match.

      Oh my gosh the 42 has like a 11 1/2" bicep measurement. I think mine is 13! LOL!!!!!

      Wait, a fisheye dart *after* the garment is sewn? How??

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    2. Ya, it's helpful to see from the chart that somemeasurements don't change that much from size to size, so you're better off to do a bicep adjustment than go up a size there.

      A fisheye dart doesen't affect any seams, so when you're done sewing the side seams, you can just pin out the excess ease and sew it up.

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