Pattern Reviews: McCall's 6711 and 5523

I'm taking the lazy route and copying my reviews over. I rarely do this!

McCall's 5523

Pattern Description: 

Straight skirt, mid-knee length, has side zipper and faced waistline; skirt A has shaped lower back flounce; skirt B has pleated lower back; skirt C has gathered lower back with self-fabric ruffle; skirt D has two lower back flounces.

I sewed view B

Pattern Sizing:

4-12, 12-18. I cut a size 18 (finished hip is 45.5; my hip is around 44")

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes!

Were the instructions easy to follow?

They were. It's so much 'bang for the buck' with this pattern.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Love the back variations. Love the princess seams.

Fabric Used:

wool, rayon, poly blend suiting from Fabric Mart which is AWFUL! And I have so much of it! Wah!!!!

I washed and dried a 6x6 inch square and it came out beautifully unchanged. However when I press the fabric it shrinks up around the area I'm pressing. Even with a press cloth.

I did a very nice catch stitched hem by hand and now it looks all puckered after pressing. AND this stuff wrinkles if you think about looking at it. Ugh.

poly pongee from fabric mart

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I made this skirt about a year ago so I tried it on right before cutting and decided I needed to take in the waist a little so I removed 1" total on the pattern. Oy! Fabric difference!!! It JUST fits.

Fully lined it.

Somehow my facing is coming up short. I noticed it on my first version and it happened again. Perhaps I'm stretching my skirt out during handling.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I would! I love this pattern SO much!

Conclusion: 

Was making a suit (jacket is M6711). Love the skirt, hate the jacket. *VERY* proud of my point on the back where the pleated piece joins the center back. Swoon!


McCall's 6711

Pattern Description:
Semi-fitted jacket has convertible collar, self-lined front, princess seams, and long sleeves.

Pattern Sizing:

6-14, 14-22. I cut a 16

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
No.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes. Well save for the lining instructions. I can never understand what the patterns are saying and just use Grainline Studios bagged lining technique.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I hate it. I hate it. I hate it. Do not try to talk me out of hating it; it is futile!

It appears to be an 'easy wear' type of jacket. It doesn't meet in front but it looks roomy. I always sew a 16 jacket. Sure, I should have muslined (guess this is the muslin). It is SLIM. the sleeves are very slim compared to how they appear on the model.

I dislike the collar. I sewed a similar collar with B6104 and hated it. I would just rather sew an actual notched collar.

I guess I like the length!

Fabric Used:

Horrible suiting from Fabric Mart. I washed and dried a 6x6 inch square and it came out beautifully unchanged. However when I press the fabric it shrinks up around the area I'm pressing. Even with a press cloth.

So it got all weird every single time I went to press it. It was just impossible to deal with.

I really love this pongee lining from FM though. I wish I would have bought tons of it. I have 2 yards of several colorways but it is very comfortable in my garments. I wasn't fond of this color initially but with the suiting it looks very pretty.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Narrow shoulder adjustment
Full bicep adjustment (not enough apparently!)
lowered bust point 1"
bagged the lining

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

No. Others had success with it so I wouldn't say it isn't recommend.

Conclusion: 

Meh. I love the skirt and was going to muslin the jacket but it looked like such a 'straightforward' sew. I really dislike it. Aside from the too-tight sleeves it just doesn't look like "me".

Good: I love lined jackets. Swoon. 

I did not like this lining color when I bought it but it looks so beautiful against that fabric!

Good: I have fantastic legs. Thank you mommy

Meh.

I didn't mean to give the skirt the stank face. I think I was angry about the fabric at this point.

Kicked BUTT on that pivot point though!

Meh.

Best face ever.

PR Wardrobe Contest: McCall's 6969

THANK YOU ALL! I big sincere thank you for the outpouring of support about my job loss. I am surprised but not. Sad but not. Excited about what may come next but annoyed at having to search and interview again.

I did start on a skirt suit today using M5523 as the bottom and will muslin S2446 next week. I decided to take these days off as mental health/sew days and Monday morning I'll be up and at it, getting my resume updated.

I'll get those pleats worked out. LOL!

***

Because my M6696 shirtdress was looking like a fail (maybe I'll post the muslins when I go back to it). I decided to use the chambray for a jumpsuit instead! It's lightweight but opaque and stable enough to not give me a headache during sewing.

I used view C because I don't like A and view D realllllly needs the "right" fabric. View B is okay so maybe another time for that one.

I bought this in the larger size range, L-XXL. I really needed a medium up top and a large on bottom. But as you can see, the top and bottom are one piece so I'm not sure how I could grade down the bodice.

It doesn't look crotch-tastic in person. 

I ended up having to take armhole darts to make it fit a little better. There's still a tuck needed at the neckline, as you can see. 

I cut an XL at the back crotch and used royal blue bias tape for the casing. I was TOTALLY gonna use paisley again but I cut it out, stitched the ends together and realized I'd sewed them wrong. Womp-womp. 

There are two channels for elastic in the hem. I LOVE this treatment! Much nicer finish than just one. However, I started with 11", that was far too long and then I chopped off too much. So if I pull them down they look like genie pants. :)

I think it would look really cool with a fitted cropped blazer. I don't have one of those but I tried it on with the blazer I recently picked up at Target and confirmed it would look great with a jacket

Please do not ask me what they mean for finishing the bottom of the placket; I do not know. It was confusing and unclear and in the end, I did what I do...I just did what looked right. Hey, it works!!!

I have the last two tops sewn but in need of hems and will get back at it after making the suit and a couple of shells.

Later!

FINALLY! Finished Items M5523 & M3830

It took forever for me to be home and there to be daylight - at the same time.

I've made McCall's 3830 before along with half the internet so I won't belabor the construction.

I will say I cut a size 16, took a 3/4" wedge from center front and pegged the hemline just a *little* bit. I didn't want it completely straight.

I used a length somewhere in between two lengths because I am a rebel. :) The fabric is a stretch denim (remnant!) scored at JoAnn. Took less than 1 yard to make which is another reason to LOVE this skirt pattern.

Next time I'll op for an invisible zipper.

And - my McCall's 5523!!! I love this skirt! It's lined and it's wool and it feels so expensive to wear. Even if I really have no place to wear a wool skirt to right now.

So, I started this in a frenzy because I had a funeral to attend. Long story short I did not attend the funeral for reasons that will be left unsaid. So I made NO adjustments to the pattern at all. Sewed a straight 18. When (not if) I make it again, I will sew a 16 waist as it is a bit too large in the waist.

I love the lining - "drafted" simply by copying the pattern pieces, leaving off the upper flounce. Hemming this was a beast though. Sheesh. But I persevered and did a blind hem and my zipper is so invisible! hahaha!