Wednesday, January 22, 2014

Jacket Schmacket. Work on Butterick 5927

I want jackets. Several jackets.

I was all set to sew jackets and then lost my mojo and then L (of YouSewGirl) and I were gonna do a sew-along but my mojo was lost and then I saw HER in progress KLM jacket (go look!) and decided to make a jacket.

But then I chickened out on a jacket with notched collar and lapels and all that and went to Butterick 5927


And cut it out of this denim look suiting that I decided was too stiff for pants. And then I started to set the sleeve. And then no amount of easing was working. And then...boooo!!

I started a PR thread and also L gave me some tips with the fleece bias strip as a header. So I quickly tried on one sleeve the bias strip and on the other trimming the sleeve cap.

I think I need to trim a *tiny* bit off the cap (maybe 1/4" or maybe even using a smaller sleeve size) and use the fleece strip. Here are a bunch of in progress pics

No changes:

With shoulder pad (a MUST now that I see how good it looks)

After trimming the cap:
(it hangs funny as I trimmed too much off)

One trimmed sleeve (which is set well) and one fleece bias stripped sleeve (which looks scary)

Soooo I think I will trim the sleeve cap down AND set it with the fleece as this jacket is lined. More later!


  1. I am in mode of wanting a pile of jackets/coats right now, too. I want one for every reason and weather situation. So it's so nice to watch others progress with them now!! I'm starting with a rain proof medium weight trench style coat in a black wool blend. I'm waiting for all my bits and bobs to come in the mail.

    1. Yay! I just ordered some black water repellant fabric from FM to make a jacket more for spring.

      Now, it was -15 when I woke up today so "spring" may well be May but still! ;) Can't wait to see it!

  2. Your jacket is coming along nicely! I really like the pattern you're using--a zippered jacket like that wouldn't have my coworkers asking if I was going on a job interview the way that they would if I showed up to the office in a blazer.

    1. Thanks :) Me too. I would not wear a traditional blazer to would be out of place. Even if I really really want a traditional blazer. I do want to make jackets like this or sort of cropped blazer styles.

      I got some more good advice on PR and will be making a muslin (GASP!) of my sleeve so I can make sure it's "right"

  3. Good call on Butterick 5927. A simple jacket for a first piece of outwear is the best. I tried to make a trench coat on my first go and well, that was a bad idea. Yours looks great so far. What kind of lining do you plan to use?

    I feel you on the sleeve stuff. I still haven't quite grasped the whole sleeve head thing without multiple tries. There was a post on the Mood Sewing Network that mentioned trimming the excess on sleeve caps:

    Had it not been for that post, my trench coat would not have sleeves right now.

  4. I feel your pain. I'm working on a jacket, too. But in sweater knit, what was I thinking? At least your jacket has some structure and will ultimately look good.

  5. I know you will find a way to make this jacket look as good as everything else you make!

  6. taut did you pull the bias fleece? Kenneth D. King suggests stretching the fleece very hard. I think this can cause more puckers that are hard to press out. The bias strip is supposed to help pull in the ease naturally; we only need to help it along a little.

    Can you compare this sleeve cap to the one from your other jacket?

  7. Best wishes on your coat.. I think cutting off some of the sleeve cap, really helped..
    Can't wait to see it ,when your finshed

  8. Thanks everyone!!

    L, I tried again and the fleece worked beautifully. Eased that sleeve cap perfectly!!

    Hope to have it finished this weekend!


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