Sunday, April 27, 2014

A Tale of Two Skirts: Burda 02/2014 & Lekala 5871

Sew-a-palooza? Oh yeah. It happened.

I made a knit top and pants (both made before), a pair of shorts and 2 skirts. I'll review the shorts and show off the other two in a second post. I also managed during Sew-a-palooza to make 3 dozen cookies, make two Target runs, have lunch with my daughter, take her to SR Harris and cook dinner! I did not go grocery shopping.

Now, if you recall, I was really working on shorts muslins a little while back. Well then I got it in my head that I needed casual skirts. And I needed a pattern with a yoke. I was perusing Lekala and found 5871.


I really liked it! Except I knew I wasn't going to attempt those zippered pockets without proper instructions. And then I knew I wasn't going to do all that dang top-stitching. And that band is cute from the front but the tabs? Meh.

And then, as soon as I paid for it, I realized there was a recent Burda pattern with a yoked back. Dang it!  But then, I had the lightbulb moment to make them BOTH. Score!!
Burda Style 02/2014 #109 is sized for stretch fabrics and intended to be lined. Lined? Nope. Not today.

The Burda pattern was up first. I'd cut a 44 but after realizing how stretchy my denim was, I decided to use that difference between a 42 and 44 as part of my seam allowance and pseudo make the 42. I attempted to read the directions twice and then said forget it...it's a simple shape; I can do this!







The Bad:
  • I was *SO* intent on my zipper not showing that I put it too far on the fly side and now it's lumpy. Boooo. 
  • I didn't add seam allowance to the drafted fly shield so it's a tiny one :)
  • I somehow drafted my waistband too short and had to patch it. You can barely tell though!!!
  • There were crazy storms today and I only have sucky pictures.
The Good:
  • I really like it! 
  • I used a jeans zipper!
  • The shaping from the yoke is awesome!
The Technical:
  • Stretch denim remnant from Mill End Textiles (purchased last year)
  • Jeans zipper from stash ($.97 on clearance from JoAnn!)
  • Size 14 needle for seams, size 16 needle for waistband, buttonhole
  • Gingham scraps for pocket lining
  • Metal button from SR Harris ($.25)
  • Thread from stash
  • Finished length was 23.5" or so...I didn't add any hem allowance and used a 1.5" hem
I actually top stitched the yoke (on either ride of the seam) but it is pretty invisible. It is neat though! Hahaha!

The Lekala skirt was sewn on Sunday in about 3 hours. It went REALLY fast. I tried reading those instructions four times and MEH!!!!! At the last minute, I decided to leave off the pockets. I like pockets but on women's fitted garments they just seem to get in the way. Every time I put on the denim skirt I have to "arrange" the pocket. Hmmph.

It was raining and WINDY and this is the best outside pic

Some of that bunching is due to my (granny) panties. Sorry.




The Bad:
  • Nothing! I kicked butt sewing this skirt!
  • Wait...the darts. I don't like the darts
  • The cut on fly is too narrow. Next time I'll add 1/4" or 3/8" to it
The Good:
  • Fast. Fast. Fast.
  • I did a good job topstitching the darts and ok on the yoke topstitching
  • I made no adjustments and think Lekala did a pretty good job on the drafting.
The Technical:
  • Cotton twill from SR Harris ($3.50/yd!)
  • Zipper from SR Harris ($.50 in stash)
  • Button from stash
  • Thread from stash!! I was so amazed that I had matching thread. Yay for stashing!
  • Since I eliminated the band on the bottom, I added 2" to the length and a 1.25" hem allowance. I ended up making a 1.5" hem.

Verdict?

They're both good patterns!!!  Yay me!
The Burda is sized for stretch wovens so that affects fit.
The Lekala is great for circumferential measurements; but I think adjustments still need to be made. E.g., my "hip" measurement is 44". More of that is attributed to my butt than my "hips". I don't have enough butt room. This is true for the Burda pattern too; but the fabric stretches.

They both lose with their crappy straight waistband that's just folded in half. Booooo.

Those darts on the Lekala have to go. I don't like them. Maybe I can Frankenpattern and use the Lekala front with the Burda back! :)



In the above pics, the Lekala is on bottom, Burda on top. They are VERY similar! The Lekala is only slightly more wide on the outseam than the Burda.

More Sew-a-Palooza and SR Harris yumminess coming up! :)

35 comments:

  1. you did such a great job, I love the stitching... and the lines on the Lekala, and the denim you used for the burda was excellent choice...

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    1. Thanks Kely!! I had fun sewing these two!

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  2. I like both! They're both very much like the Grainline moss skirt which I've made a few version of and love. I really like your dark denim, you did a great job! I've never tried Lekala but I see so many great patterns popping up I might just have to try them.

    It's weird that the Lekala has a yoke and also darts, usually they are in place of darts and do most of the shaping at the back. There's got to be a way to move that shaping in to the yoke seam.

    In any case, hurray for sew-a-palooza!

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    1. That's what I thought re: the darts. They absolutely have to go. They are out of place UNDER the yoke.

      Thanks so much! I have been hoarding that denim for awhile :)

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  3. I love the Burda skirt! I think I will have to pull that issue out tonight. Also, very impressed with your sewing speed/time management!!! Care to share some pointers?

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    1. Well, if you see below, L is convinced I am a cyborg or something ;-)

      I get tons done on weekend mornings because I've got teenagers. They sleep forever. And ever. And ever. So it is usually 10 or 11 before our house is up and going. Except I wake up by 7 a.m. no matter what. I get TONS done in that time. Also, during the week I work in 20-30 minute increments when I get the chance and it really goes far towards getting stuff done.

      My last bit; I am not a perfectionist. I do not go for perfect I go for 'good job and yes, I'd like to wear that!' :)

      Delete
  4. I still do not understand how you do it. You are some sort of super-alien-shape-shifting-sewing-goddess. Yes. That's it. =)

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    1. L you are NOT supposed to share my secrets!!!!!!!!

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  5. Your skirts are so fantastic. Love the back yoke design and so agree with you about those pockets moving whenever I walk or sit. Bravo!

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    1. Thanks Jane!

      The pockets are driving me batty. They will need to be strategically tacked.

      Delete
  6. Great skirt and lol @ granny panties. .. but they are so comfy.

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  7. You are going to get a lot of wear out of those two skirts, I think they will go with everything. Totally a win for both.

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    1. Agreed! I was pretty happy to find that neutral colored twill. I should've bought more and made shorts too!!

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  8. Yes, I agree with Carole-both skirts are great wardrobe builders!

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  9. Great skirts! I need a casual denim skirt like this, too. I've been looking at fly front skirt patterns because I know I'll get more wear out of it that way.

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    1. Thanks Michelle!

      I agree, a fly front skirt feels nice and casual and as easy to "throw on" as shorts or a pair of jeans.

      Delete
  10. I love both of your skirts, and I agree that yokes on a skirt are wonderful! That stretch denim skirt is fabulous, I have not had success with Lekala patterns, I am glad you have.

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    1. Thanks Vanessa!!

      So far, I'm happy with them. I've only made the jacket for my daughter and now this skirt. I think I am going to go ahead and try a few more of the dozen plus patterns that I've downloaded! :)

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  11. Darts and a yoke? Isn't that my sloppy resolution for miscutting the seat in my jeans pattern? There is a sweet spot for how far in to place the zipper on the fly, especially if you are me and you have a storage unit for cookies underneath it. Too wide, too lumpy, too narrow, too much zipper showing. Now THAT is where I need a dart!

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    1. Hahahaha!!! I believe I did it perfectly ONCE. And that was actually for my sons pants. I should pull that burda pattern out and review their instructions!

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  12. WOW...you really accomplished alot on your weekend.. And turned out 2 very pretty skirts.. I My favorite its the Lekala. They both look fantastic on you.. Happy sewing.

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  13. I love both skirts! You are really good!

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  14. I love both of these two - and you are right about measurements not taking into account what the body shape is. Lekala have some great patterns - I muslin- ed a pair of pants from a Lekala pattern - and they pretty much fitted with not much adjustment needed - just they were not a flattering style.

    Both these look great - but I bet you will wear the stretch more so you can move easily.

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    1. Thanks Sarah Liz. I really love them both. We shall see! :)

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  15. I love the skirts you made - they look great on you!

    Did you make the grey long sleeve T shirt you are wearing? Cause if you did, I'd love to know the pattern .... you look good in it too! :-P

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    1. Thanks Mary!

      I wish!! When I put it on I thought...Hmmm. I need a pattern for this! :-)

      Delete

Thank you for taking the time to comment! I read each and every one; even if I don't have time to respond back!