Wednesday, September 10, 2014

Fabric Mart Fabricista Challenge: Week 1

This week we were tasked with taking a basic pattern and making it our own.

After my initial "oh crap!" moment with the pattern, I told myself to get to work!

This summer we were at a picnic and a woman had on a beautiful silk top. It was very basic in shape, had cut-on sleeves and an exposed zipper. I've been coveting a simple top with exposed zipper ever.since.!

So, besides adding a zipper, how can I make this simple tee more me.

I wanted to do a contrast yoke; decided that was too predictable.
Then I decided to do a contrast on the diagonal. Nope. That had already been done with the scout.
Then I decided to do an overlay with sheer fabric or lace. Well, the only piece of lace I had in stash had been claimed by DD.

But the "overlay" thought remained and I toyed around with ideas, sketching them out (PURE comedy!!!!) and keeping with the original lines of the pattern, I came up with a cute tee that is classic, slightly funky and totally me!


Using an inky black rayon challis and creamy ivory poly crepe from stash  (yay!), I created a tee that can easily be dressed up or down and pairs with so many things already in my wardrobe!!



You didn't think I skipped out on my exposed zipper, did you!?!? I swear to goodness, everything is getting exposed zippers from now on!! Okay...maybe not... but it's a detail that I just adore! 


This zipper is ALSO from stash. Oh yeah, I was ON IT. It was a closed zipper but I removed the other tabby part and ta-da! I really liked the pull vs a normal nylon zipper. I made sure to interface the entire zipper area so it wouldn't be all 'saggy baggy'. I stitched near the zipper and then edge stitched the zipper in place.

As you can see here, I chose to add the overlay like a facing/lining. I also drafted an oddly shaped pattern piece a facing for the back. Understitched it and voila! beautifully finished neckline



Since I no longer fear the foot, I went with a rolled hem on the overlay and narrow hems on the body of the tee and the sleeves. Oh how I love thee, well behaved challis!

I also knocked around the idea of doing long sleeves or an elbow length sleeve with elasticized cuff. I think either would have worked. But when I made up my muslin I really liked the sleeve length and decided to leave it as is.

Oh yes, you heard me correctly. I made a muslin! Sarah Liz and L; I made TWO muslins!!! LOL!

Whenever possible, I assemble my pdf patterns as individual pattern pieces. 
It just makes me happier than one giant sheet all taped together.
Because I was lining the front and had facings for the back, I ignored the neckbinding piece.

I flat patterned measured and decided that a size 10 should work. I made a quick muslin in some white cotton fabric that I got for free from the lady I bought my vintage machine from! This showed me that I needed a swayback adjustment (no problem since I was already adding a center back seam for the zipper) and a slight narrow shoulder adjustment. On muslin #2 I added the overlay to get the proportions right and also decided I needed a slightly bigger FBA. Oh, yes, I did a 3/4" FBA off the bat because I knew I would need a dart for this top lest it be 'tent city'.

**Per Request, here is my first muslin photo






3/4" swayback adjustment, 1/2" narrow shoulder adjustment and oddly shaped facing

mutilated front pattern piece :) with 1" FBA and 1/2" narrow shoulder adjustment. I tried taking a tuck at CF but it didn't work how I thought it would.

Front overlay piece with a very slight "swing" added. VERY slight. I figured a tiny bit more volume and the rolled hem should make it perform how I wanted it to. I angled it to make it sit higher at CF and swoop down to the side seams.

The Scout is a very nicely drafted pattern. I had one place where things didn't quite meet up perfectly on the markings, but the pattern lines still fit together how they were supposed to, which is what matters. Also, both of the pieces say "center back" at the fold line. Obviously the front piece is the front piece but this is a little typo. The sleeve! The sleeve set very nicely and SURPRISE! I did not need a bicep adjustment! Way to go Grainline!

Really enjoying my tee on Tuesday as we celebrate my daughter's 16th birthday!



Contest is open for voting Wednesday, 10 September and Thursday, 11 September. Go HERE to see all 8 entries and to vote! Like, for me or not...whatevs... hahahaha!

Congrats Beth (110 Creations) on the week 1 win! Week 1 Winner