Tuesday, September 23, 2014

Fabric Mart Fabricista Challenge: Week 3

I was pretty dang nervous when I got Julie's email about this week's challenge. I have always had a "mmhmm" toward the copying of RTW garments. But I was motivated by the prize for this week. fabric. free fabric.  I actually had INSTANT ideas. There were three options; my Converse One-Star jacket that I wear like crazy, a knit top that I have worn to death, and a jacket that I have loved since I bought it and can no longer fit.

The Converse jacket was choice number 1. But it had rivets and snaps and tons of details that I just couldn't copy, source materials for and sew in a few days. So I dug out the size 6 Jones New York jacket (you all KNOW I am not a 6 and haven't been since...at least since I got married!).

I was pretty excited because I thought this will be a piece of cake! There are princess seams! No lapels! easy, peasy! Famous Last Words.



So I started tracing and got the body traced off. I measured and graded them up to my size


I cut a muslin out of this sad poly fabric

It fit through the body well but the shoulders and armholes were HUGE. HUGE. i started pinching out fabric and what not and (holy crooked facing) then...then I set in the sleeve.
Fail. Fail. Fail. I have never sewn a 2 piece sleeve and it's hard to trace off and yeah. THAT didn't go well. I consulted resources but I just did not know how to fix it.

At this point it was 10 p.m. and I'd put a good 7 hours into this project and I had to throw in the towel or I would have nothing to show!

My husband tried to convince me to copy this Mossimo dress and I like the dress but I just don't need several lined dresses (I have been determined during this contest to sew things that I will actually wear afterwards.). Plus, the fabric that I'd gotten for the jacket from the wool remnant section at SR Harris was actually 100% poly. Booo! The original jacket is 50/50 linen/cotton and it feels pretty dreamy. So fail after fail.

So what do you do?

Plan B.

I wore this outfit to run errands and go to the salon on Saturday. Ironing the top, I saw all the past shine spots from a too-hot iron...the tiny pin-prick holes that have developed...the faded color and decided Plan B should have been Plan A all along.



I love this top.

I love the way it fits. I love the narrow waist and fitted hip. I love how it hugs but isn't tight. I decided I should totally own another (or two) of these so that I can retire this one!


Poor top. 

I used the same stabby pin method (Tech term Dina!) to copy the pattern.


The front is cut on the fold, the back has a seam. I made sure to fold it at center and traced off the front and back pieces. There are several ways to do this but I like the paper on top. This way I create a line with my pin oricks but also by indenting the paper. The curves were finished off with my French curve. 


I took advantage of the copying to shorten it a bit and to make the arms slightly larger near the hem. I also shaped the center back seam a bit so I would have less pooling.

I added 3/8" seam allowances with 5/8" at the neckline so I could do a "turn and stitch" like the original.


My pattern

What's that little triangle you say?


I NEVER cut rectangular pattern pieces. Instead I measure them and then use a ruler/rotary cutter to cut them out for more precision.

The original is rayon lycra knit and has that lovely springiness. I actually have two cuts of rayon lycra that I picked up recently from SR Harris and one is a teal blue. -But- I knew I was going to make Vogue 1411 out of this berry colored ponte and my fabric choice was sealed.

I used this "paint splatters" jersey from Fabric Mart. I picked it up on my last jumbo knit order and it was a perfect match to my pants fabric!!!

That's a happy lady!

LOVE IT!! Dare I say, MORE than the original!!!



Vs. the original:

TWINSIES!




My jersey doesn't have as good a recovery as the original rayon Lycra knit. 
The wider sleeve hems are nice because I can push it further up my arm now. 

Neckline finished with a twin needle. 


It's a great copy and again, I am so thankful for this contest to attempt something I've not had the guts to do!!! I have actually ordered another cut of fabric to make a solid one. 

I could not WAIT to wear this outfit! I don't know what's up with me and shades of red lately but I'm rollin with it!

I got off work Monday and ran home to pick up my daughter and change into this outfit. I'm at my son's football game here (hey, it's halftime!).
Well, minutes after this, one of the coaches came over and asked me to come with him.

huh?

On the last play, my son took a big hit, blacked out, came to(!!) but was dizzy and unstable. Several hours in the ER later, he's okay, the concussion is mild and he's benched for a week minimum or until the symptoms subside. WHEW! I think I sprinted across that field in record time!!

Now, don't tell anyone that I'm also wearing the shirt to work today with tan pants. Heh, I love it!!!!


Voting is open through tomorrow, 25 September!

**Pants are Vogue 1411. I will write a separate post reviewing the pattern.