Week THREE of MMM'14

Eek! 10 more days to go! It looks like I  will make my goal of zero weekend repeats. I still have loads of casual non-work garments that I can wear on the weekends!

Day 15: KS 3115 yoga pants (my only repeat so far)

Day 16: NL 6108 top and B5927 jacket

Day 17: S2054 tunic/mini dress

Day 18: PR Winter Street Dress

Day 19: Burda 6910 top

Day 20: M6519 top

Day 21: Sew Simple A1523 top

Hopefully I'll get my hair done soon :-D

Finished Item: B5927 - My First Lined Jacket!

 I was pretty excited bout this especially after S1699 was a wadder. This jacket is somewhat similar in style; a boxy, short jacket and I figured it would be a good start before making a more traditional blazer with notched collar/lapels.

I flat pattern measured. I tissue fit

I was focused on the bust and didn't realize how far "over" the neck extended. 

Holy, too long shoulder! Yowza! A narrow shoulder adjustment was definitely in order.

That's a whole lotta excess sleeve width

I should have realized the sleeve would be difficult here...

I ended up taking a 3/4" narrow shoulder adjustment and adding 1/2" to the sleeve length. I also tapered the sleeve seam to remove some of the excess. I decided I didn't need an FBA but today after reading a lot about FBAs, I decided that while I didn't need anymore width I certainly could have used a little extra length to navigate the bust curve. You'll see that I have some pulling/diagonal wrinkles angling towards the bust.

In this post, I talked about some of the issues I was having with this jacket...the sleeves especially. I am so glad this fabric was so stable! I ripped and resewed a whole bunch of times. A WHOLE BUNCH!!!  It is some bottom weight woven that has somewhat of a denim look, from FabricMart. Lining is 'blueberry' pongee, also from FabricMart. This jacket used 1.5 yards of each which is nice.

Swayback. yes. I know. I am eager to do my bodice sloper lesson with Louise Molin. I think I need a smaller back size with a swayback adjustment and broad back adjustment. All of that excess fabric isn't just due to swayback.

See the pull towards the bust? 

The pattern instructions? Err. No. No thank you. I just did it. I used Grainline's tutorial for bagging a lining (here) and managed to screw that up eleventy times. The pulling through the sleeve is slick and I will definitely use that method for bagging jacket linings.

SO professional looking!

Don't look at my nails! LOL!

The way the lining in the sleeve works is genius! Ok, so you all probably already know this but I was AMAZED!

This stinking pattern did not include a facing for the back pattern piece and I could not wrap my head around taking the back piece and making a new lining piece and facing. It just wasn't working. I just sewed the facing/lining/jacket together...figuring the lining is so thin it wouldn't add bulk at the neckline. Careful trimming and clipping and it lies very nicely. I finished the facing with bias tape and stitched it down to the lining (before bagging).

The offensive sleeve

The jacket is comfortable and I think I'll wear it. I do not think I'll touch this pattern again. Ever.

Blog readers: Do I add a closure or not??

In the works is a simple bias cut sleeveless shell. I need more of these. I get too hot (FAR TOO HOT) to wear long sleeves under a jacket/cardigan. But I love jackets and cardigans. So I need more sleeveless tops. I am bloated enough right now that this picture almost made me cry. The shirt is hanging in my closet until next week when I am less swollen. It needs the neckline and armholes finished with self fabric bias tape and boy is it short. But the fabric is GORGEOUS (a silk/cotton voile) and I hope that I do end up loving it!

aaaaaaaand!!!!!! Hint. Hint.

One Year Sewing Anniversary!!

**Do you know what today is?**

Eeek!

Around Christmas of 2012, I was vying for a sewing machine, a Ninja or a KitchenAid stand mixer. But money was tight so we scrapped that. My husband then asked one day, "would you rather have a mixer or the sewing machine?"

I emphatically answered, "A sewing machine!".

One year ago today, I purchased my first sewing machine; a Singer Talent 3321. I had no clue what I was buying...we were in JoAnn and all I knew was that I didn't want the cheapest machine or the most expensive one.

As many of you know, I took off and haven't looked back! As a pigheaded enthusiastic new sewer, I had no comprehension of what I "should" or "shouldn't" be trying to tackle. I just went for it! So glad I did!

My mom sews, not many garments, but she has always known how to sew. She used to give me fabric scraps and I'd make clothes for my Barbies. My mom was never one to make you come and learn ___. If you had an interest, she would show you though. She didn't make me learn to cook - and hence my kids ate a whole lot of Hamburger Helper when they were toddlers. I was interested in typing (she worked as a court reporter for awhile and therefore typed ridiculously fast!) and learned to type at 7. I type really, really fast now! I was less interested -then- in the things my mom was doing and probably way more interested in what my dad was doing.

I was never a "tomboy" but I certainly didn't take home ec in high school. I did take auto shop, wood shop and some programming classes though! :) I am a very technical person and to say I pick up on things quickly is an understatement. So while I may not be very developed on the creative side of sewing, the technical side? I'm all over that!

Some things I've learned in my first year and would tell other beginning sewers:

 

 1. Sew what you want! If you are a beginner and you don't want to sew tote bags and pillowcases - DON'T.

This was a HUGE source of frustration for me when I first found Pattern Review. I DO NOT WANT to make a tote bag, I want to make a shirt!!! :) (I'm a stubborn one if you can't tell.)

2. Know your learning style.
I don't do as well with books as I do with videos. So I didn't run out and buy all the books suggested and instead used my (fantastic!) public library to check out about 98% of the books suggested. Still, most of the things I've conquered have come from watching YouTube videos.

3. Obsessive-compulsive behavior does also extend to sewing.
I have like 265 patterns including Lekala & Hot Patterns. I have 3 Burda Style mags. I have 6 totes of fabric plus some random boxes with random stuff in them, plus I've sewn a lot of things. I have bought a LOT of sewing goodies--A LOT. It was different when it was fueled with the money from crocheting...now I need to slow down a bit. So I am being more selective. 60% off notions? I am there. I almost always buy needles at these sales.

4. And speaking of patterns...

• Look at the line drawings!
• Pattern Review is invaluable but google a pattern too. Lots of people that are sewing are running a blog but not participating on the sewing site(s)
• don't overlook coordinate/sportswear/wardrobe patterns; especially if you're lucky enough to be in the US with Hancock and/or JoAnns stores nearby and catch a $1/$2 sale.

5. Oh. And Fabric...
Yummmmmmmy. Don't you just love to fondle your stash? If you are a person that shops for fabric on a per-project basis, I am amazed at you. Amazed. That would drive me crazy because inevitably I'd know *exactly* what I want and then not be able to find it anywhere. ANYWHERE. I live by FabricMart sales. I can count the number of "bad fabric" I've gotten from there. Very little. Sure there were times I didn't read the description properly or just saw the color or print or something and then....ohh. This isn't really appropriate for me/my life/whatever. I very rarely buy fabric from JoAnn or Hancock. I just feel it is SO overpriced. And I have SR Harris. I want to marry SR Harris...whoever he is. :)

6. Invisible zippers are actually not the most complicated to sew!
Sure it isn't a centered zip but it actually goes rather well if you have an invisible zipper foot and baste the zipper in place first.

7. Pressing is everything. E.V.E.R.Y.T.H.I.N.G.
I don't really "iron" and was not "ironing" (in my head) when I first started. But I kept reading about pressing, pressing, pressing. Oh my gosh. (Well, duh, you all know what pressing properly does to a garment.) I do not have an expensive iron. I have a B & D classic that is heavy as heck and gets hot and steamy.

8. Maintain your machine!
One day (I thought I blogged it), my machine went clunk. And stopped working. And I almost cried. Now I am sure to clean and oil it as I sew almost every day. Oh, and CHANGE YOUR MACHINE NEEDLES! I read a lot of opinions on this but what sealed it for me was; "new needles are a lot cheaper than sewing machine repair".  Ah. That simple sentence changed it all. Yes. On sale I can get 5 needles for around $3-$4. Yep. I'd much rather change needles more frequently than have things go haywire.

Err...I was just going along and then realized I'd have nine things so thought I'd make it a list of 10! 9 is...uhmm...
9. Sew every day!! Even if it's just 15 minutes.
VERY often I end up not wanting to go to the basement (I can't wait to get a main floor room and should have just commandeered the sunny, huge living room that we aren't using). But then once I go down there, the energy starts flowing. Yesterday I didn't feel that well and only went down to wash towels. And yep, I spent about 15 minutes fiddling with the latest project.

10. The M word...Muslins. I do not like (in my toddler voice)!
I get the WHY...I do. I just can't. It zaps me of all the desire to work on THAT project. I'd have to be making something really important to me (and starting WAY ahead of time) and of fabric that I *really* love -- like it is truly ooak (one of a kind) or cost lots of money -- for me to muslin. I flat pattern measure, I tissue fit, I go. It mostly works out. When it doesn't, I move on.


Muslin. Don't muslin. Make the choice for yourself rather doing it because you "have to".

 

Edited to add:
Sewing tools I cannot live without - and some that I know I want to get

• My spray bottle. Necessary during pressing!
• Seam gauges. I have 2 and think I need a third one. One at the cutting table, one at the ironing board and one near the machine.
• My ham. OMG why did I wait so long to get this thing?!!? I have to buy a seam roll!
• Set of clear rulers. I have a 3 of different widths and lengths. Invaluable. I need a French curve too.
• My cutting table. I would often comment that I hate cutting. No, I hated breaking my back leaning over the 29" dining room table. (the 24x36 cutting mat goes hand in hand!!)
• My serger. :swoon: It sat in a box for almost 2 months because I was afraid of it. I still have lots to learn but I couldn't live without it!
• Chaco liners. Goodness gracious. These things make me only want to sew dark woven fabrics. lol! I have 3. Two white, one yellow.

What did I *have* to have and rarely use:

• Lily, my dress form. (Shhhhhhhh! I hope to get a Fabulous Fit System this year to make her a little more useful to me)
• Rotary cutters. I have 3. Meh. I like shears better.

 

Things I'm looking forward to in my next year of sewing

1. There are several contests I want to enter this year on Pattern Review.
2. I'm going to be a contest manager for the Vintage contest!!
3. I'm going to buy a new machine this year (if you have recommendations in the $500 range, please pass them on!).
4. I'm going to keep working on my skills and tackle things I've shied away from like welt pockets (even though my practice welts were a good start!) and silky fabrics.
5. I'm going to make a lined jacket (already in progress!), I'd love to make a coat too (planned for next month!).
6. I'm going to learn to do a stupid lapped zipper and to get decent top stitching.
7. I'm going to not covet 'every cool/nice/pretty garment that I see on the interwebs'.
8. I will not buy every pattern that goes on sale. I will look at the technical lines and decide if it really is something NEW and DIFFERENT that I don't already have in my collection of 260 patterns.
9. I'm going to purchase fabric a bit more judiciously. A bit.

And the blog? The blog will continue to be what it is.

• I am not a photographer and have no interest in learning photography. iPhone pics. That's what it is. 
• I am not a fashionista - I don't know what's in or out...I just sew what I want to sew.
• I am not a writer. I am a scientist. We learn to write in short, concise, factual sentences. I have no flowy words. I write like I think.
• I will be adding my own little "feature". I'll do a little 'wrap up' of the previous month's projects on the first of the next month. I will periodically (quarterly?) do a review of how garments/fabrics are wearing. Something I don't think happens a ton in blogland but is so helpful when it does happen.

Here is a sneak peak of the in progress jacket (hope to be completed this weekend!)

 

I want to make 7,000 lined jackets now.

 

Those tiny puckers are there to stay my friends

Also...today is ALSO my one year anniversary in braces! Woohoo! This was a difficult decision to make as I had already worn braces as an adult. My teeth were mostly straight the first time and I did an okay job wearing my retainer and then I bent it. I didn't go back to my ortho and uhmm...yeah. My teeth shifted back and in fact were a bit worse off than before. They'd started rotating and doing other weird things. So at my dentist's urging, I went in for a consult (took me almost a year to do it though!). A year later, here is my own personal "Colgate" ad! :)

 

Jacket Schmacket. Work on Butterick 5927

I want jackets. Several jackets.


I was all set to sew jackets and then lost my mojo and then L (of YouSewGirl) and I were gonna do a sew-along but my mojo was lost and then I saw HER in progress KLM jacket (go look!) and decided to make a jacket.

But then I chickened out on a jacket with notched collar and lapels and all that and went to Butterick 5927



And cut it out of this denim look suiting that I decided was too stiff for pants. And then I started to set the sleeve. And then no amount of easing was working. And then...boooo!!

I started a PR thread and also L gave me some tips with the fleece bias strip as a header. So I quickly tried on one sleeve the bias strip and on the other trimming the sleeve cap.

I think I need to trim a *tiny* bit off the cap (maybe 1/4" or maybe even using a smaller sleeve size) and use the fleece strip. Here are a bunch of in progress pics

No changes:

With shoulder pad (a MUST now that I see how good it looks)

After trimming the cap:

 

(it hangs funny as I trimmed too much off)

One trimmed sleeve (which is set well) and one fleece bias stripped sleeve (which looks scary)

Soooo I think I will trim the sleeve cap down AND set it with the fleece as this jacket is lined. More later!

 

Butterick Pattern Giveaway!

Yes! I am giving away patterns! Only 2...but they're new and they're perfect for fall!

When the new Butterick's were released, there were a few that I wanted for sure.

5908 - I was thinking the red drew me in, (I love red pants!!) but I think I rather like the rise and cut of these. Looking at the pattern envelope, it seemed like these could work. I traced the pattern this weekend...hopefully I can get a muslin going sometime this week.



5915 - The line drawing is much better looking than the pattern photo. I especially like views A and C.



5928 - Again, the photos look outdated, the line drawings show how cute this pattern can be when the right fabric is chosen.



5908 is a See & Sew pattern, they're $2.99 always at JoAnn's. The other Butterick's were picked up at a $1.99 sale at Hancock.

In addition to the above, I picked up 5926 and 5927. I was happy they were in!! Well, on a trip to JoAnn this weekend for double pointed needles, I saw that Butterick's were 5/$5! And then I saw that the new patterns were in! So I bought...5926 and 5927 - AGAIN! :)

So I figured I'd host a giveaway on my little blog. I don't have a ton of followers so it'll be easy to win! ;-)

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5926:

MISSES'/MISSES' PETITE JACKET: Fitted, unlined jacket has collar, pockets and stitched hems. A and C: purchased trim.

Designed for moderate stretch knits.

FABRICS: Wool Jersey, Ponte Knit, Cotton Knit and Sweatshirt Fleece. GIVEAWAY SIZE: B5(8, 10, 12, 14, 16) Clean, modern lines, no lining and made of a knit - SCORE!! Size: 5927: MISSES' JACKET: Semi-fitted, lined jacket has optional shoulder pads, front variations, and topstitching. A and B: seam detail. B: flaps and pockets. C: front zipper. D: button trim on cuffs and back tab. B and D: collar and cuffs. C and D: side front seams and pockets. Designed for light to medium weight woven. GIVEAWAY SIZE: E5(14-16-18-20-22) Leave a comment stating which pattern you'd like and I'll choose a winner of each using random.org number generator on Saturday, July 20th! **US residents only please! I loathe visiting the post office.